Need to find,a R.A.S. tool for G&P!

[Death March]

Hey guy's,I'm still fightting with this S.O.B. , from what WGC was saying it's a Slip-ring,not a Delta-ring.What I'v tryed thus far is placing it between my leg's (Muzzle up!) and while using this Rubber stap wrench I could see the wrench handle bending(it's a long thick handle),I'v tryed several times thinking it would just brake free with no-luck! I realy do appreciate the input as it does give me other things to try! As for the brass tube there is no place to put it.It's like a large Ring type nut,according to WGC it's usally so tight it just turns with the R.A.S.. The gun is a G&P M4SO,just in case anybody wants to see what I'm talking about.Again thanks for the input guys!

[mcguyver]

The problem I ecountered once with a G&P body was the due to the finish coating. It was applied a little too thick on the upper threads and made threading on a real-steel RAS very difficult. If this was the case with yours, removal by yourself virtually impossible. 2 guys should be able to do it, as it's taken that once or twice for me to remove one.

Try using rubber gloves as well. The oils on your skin will make working with those parts difficult as well. Not to mention rubber grips better than skin, but they teach that to schoolkids in health classes nowadays.

[hymnforthewretched]

do what wgc told you to do with the ras together put a very grip close to the reciever and try turning it, i used heavy lock-tite on my real steal ras and was still able to get it off this way, although it wasnt easy. it provides alot of leverage.

[Death March]

I'm not sure if anyone remembers these,Mastercraft Boa-constrictor wrenches,but thats what I'v been trying to work with.I think McGuyver's got it,that seems to be whats going on,theres like zero lash on these threads.I'v tryed using the vert. grip once and it seemed like it was going to brake(Vert. grip!).I'm not sure if using the rubber gloves would do much as my hands aren't really on the unit,my leg's and body are and both hands are on the wrench.But I'm thinking,ya it might take two guy's!What are the chances of the reciver braking?

[mcguyver]

Originally Posted by Death March

I'm not sure if anyone remembers these,Mastercraft Boa-constrictor wrenches,but thats what I'v been trying to work with.I think McGuyver's got it,that seems to be whats going on,theres like zero lash on these threads.I'v tryed using the vert. grip once and it seemed like it was going to brake(Vert. grip!).I'm not sure if using the rubber gloves would do much as my hands aren't really on the unit,my leg's and body are and both hands are on the wrench.But I'm thinking,ya it might take two guy's!What are the chances of the reciver braking?

\

If you want to take precautions, split the receivers and do all your work on just the upper/front end. That's how they do it with real steel during manufacturing (I watched it on G.I. Factory on the Military Channel). I know they can sometimes be a son-of-a-bitch to break the initial lock on the threads, but after that, it's all bubbles and ice cream.

[hymnforthewretched]

Originally Posted by Death March

I'm not sure if anyone remembers these,Mastercraft Boa-constrictor wrenches,but thats what I'v been trying to work with.I think McGuyver's got it,that seems to be whats going on,theres like zero lash on these threads.I'v tryed using the vert. grip once and it seemed like it was going to brake(Vert. grip!).I'm not sure if using the rubber gloves would do much as my hands aren't really on the unit,my leg's and body are and both hands are on the wrench.But I'm thinking,ya it might take two guy's!What are the chances of the reciver braking?

ya if you using a airsoft manufactured vert grip they could break under than amount of stress. i have a real steel tango down so that wasnt an issue for me.

but this thing has to come off somehow....haha

about the reciever, try not torqing on areas that are more fragile, like try avoiding the spot right under the ejection port as this can bend sometimes, keep trying though it will just let loose one day hopfully

[Death March]

Yeh thats cool,I'm hoping with back&forth she'll finally let go! I just can't belive how THEY got the thing that tight without buggering it up,oh wait they did lol,missallined the Hop-up! Thanks again guys,to all have a great NewYear,Cheers! P.S. I'll let ya know if I get this off and how(if it does!).Cheers!

[-SWAT-]

im having the same problem, with mine, the barrel was screwed in cock eyed and the hopup wont line up properly causing feed problems (NO FEEDING AT ALL) mine is a REDWOLF Custom G&P SAM-R.

here are the pictures.

i have found out what is wrong with the thing. the outer barrel grooves that line up with the hop up grooves are off center so i was wondering if anyone knows how to rotate a outer barrel so i can line up the hopup with the outer barrel so my mags will seat properaly and if anyone knows how to take off the RAS that i have on my AEG so i can get this thing fireing.

also would i have to take off my Knights Front Sight, and pull out my gas tube?

how are the gas tube attached to the front sight and metal upper receiver?

pictures


as you can see the outer barrel is off center


another picuture showing it off center


close up


How on earth do you take off the RAS from the beginning?


close up of RAS Rail lower and upper reciever


the circular THING (no sweet clue what it is) at the top of the RAIL that attachs it to the upper reveiver is what im having trouble with, i dont know what to do to get at the outer barrel???


when taking off my RAS will my front sight get in the way? (im leaning towards yes) and how do i take this thing off?



Thanks
SWAT

[Jugglez]

Knock out the 2 pins at the bottom of the front sight. (If they're threaded allen bolts even better, just unscrew them) Try not to lose them. I use a magnetic dish to keep all the loose nuts/bolts/screws/other metal parts in one place.

The front sight should slide off towards the front taking the gas tube with it... then you can take the RAS off.

The problem is likely at the delta ring area. Won't know until you get to it and see.

Good luck.

[Death March]

Ya know for the life of me,I still can't get mine lose,but it's working for now! That suckers on tight! It's the same thing,the Hop-up's sitting off just that little bit causing some feeding issues.I'm really tempted to hose it down with WD-40,but thats just a bad idea and the anger getting the better of me lol.If you manage to break it lose let me know as I'v run out of idea's at this time.

[-SWAT-]

Originally Posted by Jugglez

Knock out the 2 pins at the bottom of the front sight. (If they're threaded allen bolts even better, just unscrew them) Try not to lose them. I use a magnetic dish to keep all the loose nuts/bolts/screws/other metal parts in one place.

The front sight should slide off towards the front taking the gas tube with it... then you can take the RAS off.

The problem is likely at the delta ring area. Won't know until you get to it and see.

Good luck.

i have tryed to tap those suckers out, but they are in there pretty good, i guess ill keep trying, any hints?

[Dirty Deeds]

I'm not sure if I read what you wrote wrong, OR if you are trying to remove it wrong, therefore here is a makeshift diagram.

You'll have to figure out which side the pins come out on the sight, one side has a spline and the other doesn't, smack them out by hitting towards the spline side (spline down). You may have to lay it on a wood block and be somewhat forcefull with your blows. Don't forget the set screw underneath the sight too.

The first ring screws onto the RAS, so the get it off turn it CCW as in the pic.

The second ring which screws onto the receiver you'll turn CW as in the pic, or CCW when looking down the barrel.

[-SWAT-]

Thanks for the diagram, and the front sight pins came out just fine. now the HEX screw on the bottom on the front sight is that 1mm? or is it a HEX screw at all?

ill post pictures on how i did it when i get the sucker(RAS) all apart for everyone to see as a future reference

[Dirty Deeds]

Not sure of the size, but it will be a hex screw.

[-SWAT-]

i tryed 2mm and it was a tad bit to big... wow 1mm is really small HEX screw