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March 22nd, 2007, 16:08 | #1 |
Mod to cutoff battery when mag is empty
So I read this post and project for the bb counter.
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...hlight=counter And I got to thinking, that's pretty cool, but it wouldn't work on most guns. (well it would actually phyically work but not in terms of realism/looks) so then I got to thinkin, maybe you could use a similar idea to cut off the power to the motor from the battery. That way once the clip is empty the gun just won't fire any more, until you load a new clip Just have an IR sender and reciever in the bb load chamber area (where dude had put it orignally in the project) and when there's no bb there it cuts off power to the motor. You could have an override switch in the cocking tube so you could still dry fire it to clean out the chamber after a game. (When the cocking lever is all the way forward this system would work, and when the lever is all the way back you can still dry fire to clear the chamber) Only potential problems I see would be that maybe rate of fire would be affected because of the time it takes to load the next bb into the chamber. Although that would be fractions of a second. You would have to replace the area you cut out for the ir peices with clear plastic so you don't affect the air pressure in the chamber. Anyone see any other problems? OOOOH, just thought of something else. once the IR switch cut the power and you load a new clip, you'd have to use the cocking tube to reset the system. would be a pain, but add to realism. And for some bonus realism, on some gun model (AK47:wink: ) the system would randomly cut off power, simulating jamming. heheheheh, just kidding Now I just need to figure out how to get all that to work. Any ideas? |
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March 22nd, 2007, 16:12 | #2 |
Simulate jamming on an M16/M4 too!
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YANHCHAN'S AIRSMITHING: AEG repair/Tune up/Upgrades V2/V3 mechboxes, rewiring/reconnecting. Ask not what your country can do for you; ask what you can do for your country ~John F. Kennedy |
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March 22nd, 2007, 16:24 | #3 |
A Total Bastard
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MAGAZINE!
Clips are for STRIPPERS!
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VINCITE OMNIMODO
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March 22nd, 2007, 17:07 | #4 |
you might becareful of an increase of resistence and for a prototype you may want to start simple and add the override later. Another concern might be the IR signal between BBs. Because BBs are spherical there will be spaces between them when they are stacked on top of each other. If the IR signal is picked up between BBs you might run into some problems. In the worse case scenario you could cause a timing issue with your motor and create an actual jam. But this is all speculation based on whether the IR signal will be picked up or not. It also seems that the power would be cut if your highcap was not wound or for what ever reason a bb does not disrupt the IR signal. Sounds cool, I wouldnt mind not having to worry about dry firing.
lets us now how your prototype turns out. just a thought you might be able to avoid the "between the BBs" issue if the IR signal is positioned diagonally across the feed tube. the more severe the angle at which the signal is positioned aganist the BBs the less of a "between BBs" gap will be present. this might cause you to actually dry fire though because the signal is given more chances to be disupted by a BB but over a greater distance. This will cause the IR signal to represnt a less acurate single BB reading.. For example if your high cap is loose you may still disrupt the signal but not enough to load the chamber which would cause a dry fire. these are horrizontal for diagraming purposes only. igrore all the periods, they are only for position. ..................IR ................./ __________________ OOOOOOOOOOOOOO-----> in this case there would be disruption and no """""""""""""""""""""""""""" loss of power ..........PU ....................IR .....................| __________________ OOOOOOOOOOOOOO-----> the "between BBs" effect """"""""""""""""""""""""""""" .....................PU ......................IR ....................../ __________________ OOOOOOOOOOO----------> in this case a signal failure has occured. There """"""""""""""""""""""""""""" is no loss of power and dry fireing have occured ...............PU mateba hell, since you are already useing your aeg battery and will be moding a hicap, put some UV leds in there to charge tracer rounds. Last edited by mateba; March 22nd, 2007 at 17:15.. Reason: correction |
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March 22nd, 2007, 18:08 | #5 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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March 22nd, 2007, 18:19 | #6 |
there is always 3-4 bbs in the feedtube, even if the mag is empty...
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March 22nd, 2007, 18:38 | #7 |
I wonder how systema does it...
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March 22nd, 2007, 19:15 | #8 |
March 22nd, 2007, 19:16 | #9 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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I just load a dozen red 0.12g BBs into my mags first, then fill it with normal 0.25g. That way I know I'm low on ammo, and I avoid dry firing my gun. Heck, even the sound changes slightly (instead of a tack tack tack sound, it's more of a tick tick tick sound).
I like the creative idea though, very cool. I'd like to see one's thoughts after they went ahead with this mod. |
March 22nd, 2007, 19:19 | #10 |
Probably via a pressure sensor. When the spring in the mag is completely decompressed due to being empty there might be another guide that presses up on a switch in the gun that cuts the power.
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Some people call them Terrorists. These boys have simply been...misguided. |
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March 22nd, 2007, 19:58 | #11 |
Systema uses a follower connected to a lever. When the mag is empty, the lever is lifted upwards and pushes out the bolt release, which is interlocked with a microswitch. When you put a fresh mag in, you must hit the bolt release to close the microswitch and allow the gun to fire.
Same procedure (more or less) as my real AR. This is a mechanical system with very low probability of failure. The amount of tinkering and effort to perfect an interlocking system for another AEG would be significant, assuming you could get it to work reliably at all. You might as well by a Systema. BTW, I usually pay $50 each for their mags, but once I did pay $75 each. The guns themsleves are another story, but no more expensive than a FMU Marui with internal upgrades. And way more power, ROF and much more reliable.
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Age verifier Northern Alberta Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what's for dinner. Freedom is the wolves limping away while the sheep reloads. Never confuse freedom with democracy. |
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March 23rd, 2007, 11:07 | #12 |
Nice idea. Definitely would be a cool DIY if one has the knowledge and skills.
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Grenadier Weapons SRC Colt M4A1 FMU + CA Military M203 Long | TM G3 SAS | TM G3A3 | KJW Beretta M9 FMU _______________________________ Ottawa Valley Airsoft |
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March 23rd, 2007, 17:05 | #13 |
March 23rd, 2007, 17:58 | #14 |
I hope those aren't crap 0.12's? That would be bad to fuck up your gun, would it not?
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March 23rd, 2007, 18:34 | #15 | |
Quote:
Just have to put them in a plastic container and shake them for about 1 hour.... most seam defects will be gone and it should not jam as much. And I use some neon green ones... you know the ones at Walmart... 20$ for 10000....hell I think I will have forever to go through the 10000.... Mostly because I don't have any AEG left...BA and handgun only. I think it would be quite easy to do with an aluminium follower... just have to run a signal in the spring, which will go in the follower, then have a small metal part added to the side of the mag...all linked to 2 friction connection on the mag... Only problem I see is with metal mags... And beside, to be able to cut-off the power when you are out of ammo, then have to recock the gun to start firing.... You only have 3 choices. 1- have a relay circuit with a NO relay, loop it to a Boolean logic switch and maybe an inverter (depends on the way used to detect the "no ammo"). It will cause some errors once in a while and might not be accurate enought to actually work. Then have a parallel "reboot" circuit to repower the relay when recocked. You will always consume a lot of energy just to keep it running. And you will have to find a big cube shaped space to fit the relay (considering the currents involved, I think 1.5"x1.5"x1.5" would be a good aproximate). 2- Use a huge logic circuit. It will consume energy even when in "shut down" and will be kinda bulky. (unless you are able to make it in surface mounted components) 3-Use a programable micro-controler and a relay, using the same as up there, but it would allow for an auto reboot after a given time, or "dry fire" mode...if programmed well. It surely will cause a lag in the response and might not be efficient enought to be uses here. Positive is that it would be possible to calibrate the margin of error a lot more and it could be the most efficient solution. HELL! It would be easier to make my kitchen prepare a breakfast linked on my alarm clock than to make this thing work! Just stick some colorfull BBs in there and keep an eye for them. Plus I don't know for yu but I know right away when I fire the first "blank". Sounds a lot different. Just ease on the full-auto-spray-and-pray and you won't have to worry. |
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