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Originally Posted by MikeMcNair;1866469[B
]The Guarder Steel Slides i have had (2 of them now, and the most recent is the "anti-snag" one i finished just days ago) both fit ok, but to get the smoothest cycling out of the pistols i did polish the rails on the frame, AND the inner "groove" on the slides, as well as the bottom most portion of the slides. (think of placing the slide on a table, flat. the part that touches the actual table is a HUGE point of contact on the frame, and thus needs attention)
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was it difficult? no.
for best results, TIME, and SLOW filing (then polishing on the slide's grooves AND the frames rails) are highly recommended.
i am VERY picky, and want things perfect, so my approach is a little methodical. hell, i put both steel slides, and the aluminum one i have in a vice, to close the window of tolerance making the slides fit with ZERO rattle (side to side per se) and SMOOTH cycling front to back.
i have been around real steel for a while, and i see no reason a GBB cannot have the same fit and finish, as well as overall feel of being SOLID, with some time and effort.
this is hobby to me, i do not compete, and frankly barely plink with them. My son enjoys them for shooting. I enjoy them for modifying and enhancing.
-Michael
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While this statement is true, I will have to politely disagree...but by a little.A smidgen even
THere are many AIRSOFT slides on the market that do not touch the frame at the point you specified and still have a crappy action once mounted.
There are two major causes that I found that is almost present in most Glocks that I've worked on:
1).
The bump on the blowback unit- This little bump is the source of the majority of the friction felt by the operator when he/she complains of their action woes.
This bump tends to be too proud and will hit the hammer bearing during normal operation infringing a "smooth" slide action.
This is further exasterbated by the fact that the STOCK recoil spring is not powerful enough to pull the slide to gather enough velocity for the bump to hump over that hammer bearing (i think it's part 50 on the KJW diagram)
As a result, the slide remains open if the case in question is severe.
A perfect example of this is the recent GunsModify Aluminum LightWeight Blowback unit. The ones that I received had the bump so proud that the gun will not travel fluently. In fact, I had to file material away from the hammer housing where the firing pin disconnector is AND the hammer. Crazy!
2). The other problem is because of the design on the slide rails itself. It's not a continuant guide rail like the P226's front guide rail, which is longer, for example. This causes all kinds of issues once the gun is taken apart for say...cleaning. and put back together.
A perfect example of this is the Guarder Frames. When every nut and bolt is installed, the front rail dips down causing an uneven plain for the slide to glide on. It's stupid really. lol.
At that point, it doesn't matter how much you file the underside of that slide. It WILL hit the frame regardless.
Because it's a two piece rail system, at some point they will mis-align. Especially if the front screw post breaks and front portion is not bolted to the frame properly.
Ideally, to eliminate this issue, you want a slide guide rail system that runs in ONE continuous rail. For example, like ILLusion Kinectics' system for the 2011/1911s.
Filing the "inner groove" on the slide can cause a potential for a wobbly slide. It's suppose to "hug" those guide rails as close as it can without infringing the action of the slide (that sounds...contradictory. lol.)
But yes. I still do agree with you though...