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m102404 · April 23rd, 2013, 10:12

IMO...one of the biggest up-sell points about WE is that it's a modular system...and stock replacement parts are cheap.

That second part is negated with really expensive, slightly out of spec "upgrade" parts. Most of which, IMO, are not needed.

#1 rule for me with a new WE...if it shoots reliably, don't mess with it too much. Modding is modding though...so if you need to make a build, then you take the good with the bad.

NPAS...sure. However, these things like to run wide open (like all gas systems do) so when you choke it down you get so-so performance/reliability out of it. But we have to work within field limits so that's the nature of the beast.

For me....the only other thing I'll replace is MAYBE change the hopup rubber. The stock one is a little too soft/spongy and these things benefit from a harder rubber with a flatter/wider bump.

Tightbores...meh, not needed for most of the shooting we do with them.

I will do the following though after a build or with a new rifle....
1. cycle the gun (with and without BBs) for several hundred shots in a controlled environment (i.e. my workshop or basement).
2. go over the whole thing looking for loose screws, binding, excessive wear points, etc...
3. I'll take the hopup out and teflon tape the hopup rubber. Helps with air leaks and it firms up the inner barrel in the hopup or else it wobbles (huge affect on accuracy).
4. I'll shim the inner in the outer to center it (huge improvement in accuracy)

Then I'll just run the gun mag after mag until I get bored. If the trigger break gets really bad (it's a mushy-ish break to start with) I might take the trigger group out to look for excessive premature wear.

If the consistency of the shots is still not there after some field use I'll swap the hopup rubber.

For gaming...if the WE is my primary rifle I'll pack a spare bolt from another build. Aside from the trigger group or receiver catastrophically failing...the most likely dead-gun cause in the field is a broken nozzle. You can change them out in the field...but it's a PITA with little pins/springs. A spare bolt/nozzle swap is super quick and easy.

Re. the magic pins/etc...here's my take. These things are not made with the best quality materials. Nor are they held to exacting tolerances. And...for the material quality that they are made of...they operate under quite a bit of force/duress. So...a little bit of slop isn't a bad thing if it keeps the system from self destructing.

My last build is looking pretty good and spitting out pretty tight groups. But there's still flyers. I think that just because of the nature of them they'll never be the "super DMR l33t sniper laser beam" rifle that some guys are expecting. They're still fine for field/CQB use and the fun factor is there...so in the end it's about setting expectations fairly.

April 23rd, 2013, 10:12	#12
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	IMO...one of the biggest up-sell points about WE is that it's a modular system...and stock replacement parts are cheap. That second part is negated with really expensive, slightly out of spec "upgrade" parts. Most of which, IMO, are not needed. #1 rule for me with a new WE...if it shoots reliably, don't mess with it too much. Modding is modding though...so if you need to make a build, then you take the good with the bad. NPAS...sure. However, these things like to run wide open (like all gas systems do) so when you choke it down you get so-so performance/reliability out of it. But we have to work within field limits so that's the nature of the beast. For me....the only other thing I'll replace is MAYBE change the hopup rubber. The stock one is a little too soft/spongy and these things benefit from a harder rubber with a flatter/wider bump. Tightbores...meh, not needed for most of the shooting we do with them. I will do the following though after a build or with a new rifle.... 1. cycle the gun (with and without BBs) for several hundred shots in a controlled environment (i.e. my workshop or basement). 2. go over the whole thing looking for loose screws, binding, excessive wear points, etc... 3. I'll take the hopup out and teflon tape the hopup rubber. Helps with air leaks and it firms up the inner barrel in the hopup or else it wobbles (huge affect on accuracy). 4. I'll shim the inner in the outer to center it (huge improvement in accuracy) Then I'll just run the gun mag after mag until I get bored. If the trigger break gets really bad (it's a mushy-ish break to start with) I might take the trigger group out to look for excessive premature wear. If the consistency of the shots is still not there after some field use I'll swap the hopup rubber. For gaming...if the WE is my primary rifle I'll pack a spare bolt from another build. Aside from the trigger group or receiver catastrophically failing...the most likely dead-gun cause in the field is a broken nozzle. You can change them out in the field...but it's a PITA with little pins/springs. A spare bolt/nozzle swap is super quick and easy. Re. the magic pins/etc...here's my take. These things are not made with the best quality materials. Nor are they held to exacting tolerances. And...for the material quality that they are made of...they operate under quite a bit of force/duress. So...a little bit of slop isn't a bad thing if it keeps the system from self destructing. My last build is looking pretty good and spitting out pretty tight groups. But there's still flyers. I think that just because of the nature of them they'll never be the "super DMR l33t sniper laser beam" rifle that some guys are expecting. They're still fine for field/CQB use and the fun factor is there...so in the end it's about setting expectations fairly.