Quote:
Originally Posted by Styrak
Basic, perhaps you didn't center the drilling exactly? If its loose or off-center, maybe that's the source of your issues?
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No, I managed to get it right. I used a machinist's square to measure the final result, and it measured at a perfect 90°.
I'll describe my methodology: As they're the center point for all potential accuracy, I used the frame's rails as my basis for measuring everything. I secured the frame into a machinist's vise, getting it perfectly flat top to bottom, front to back, by using a dial gauge on a magnetic base. I then inserted a laser emitter into the drill press' chuck, lined up the frame, checking to ensure the cut would be on target. When I was sure everything was properly set, I installed the cutting bit and measured it for zero run-out. I also set a wooden block under the plastic right side of the frame, which was on the bottom in this case, to prevent it from flexing. I went ahead with the cut at moderate speed, taking my time to ensure a clean bore.
As I said, the new hole for the hammer pivot is true, but you might not be able to say that for any of the other holes molded in at the factory. There's too much stress in this application for any frame made of plastic. I'm sure some of the other holes and grooves are becoming elongated from the force of firing the pistol.
Jordan, your suggestion of checking the leaf spring is quite valid. Either it was an amazingly lucky fluke, or someone has honed the engagement surfaces within this pistol's action. Either way, this gun has a beautiful, crisp trigger action! I can't wait to drop everything into a proper frame to see its full potential.
Working on this plastic frame isn't just a waste of time for me; I used to build IPSC race guns - for myself and fellow shooters. Airsoft is now my sport, so I'm applying what I learned with real steel to airsoft pistols. ILLusion, your YouTube videos have been a huge help too.