Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion
Okay, I understand what you are saying now. But, gotta look at it this way... if even Marui spec floating valve can fit in to the nozzle without falling out, then would it not be a given that it's providing a seal? The lip on it holds it in place. The SD's problem is actually that the lip is too SMALL, and as a result, it slips inside the tunnel through the exit port of the nozzle.
I agree with this theory and have always believed it as well. I just haven't gotten it to work successfully yet, but have also not always resorted to testing high flow valves to see if it works when I encounter this problem. I see it maybe 50% of the time.
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Ah I see now. I was just making a guess with the SD valve since (to me at least) it would've been the logical conclusion that the SD valve would have a better seal if it gets stuck in the nozzle when it's pushed in all the way. I didn't notice that the SD lip was actually smaller than the stock one. Out of curiosity, did you say that you've only seen the SD nozzle working with 134a gas?
Speaking of floating valves, I thought I'll share with everybody here that RA TECH made a NPAS system for marui pistols. You can get it at Tokyo Model Company
here. Seems to be a replacement for the floating valve. For those who dunno what the NPAS system is, it was first developed for GBBRs so that you can control the FPS output of the gun via changing the setting on the NPAS system. I don't think that RA Tech really advertised their NPAS for marui pistols since I only found out about it a week ago. Haven't seen any review for it yet but generally the reviews are good for the GBBR NPAS systems. It's pretty cheap too at 15 USD (HKD 120 at their retail shop) and I think it'll be awesome for people running CO2 guns to be able to limit their FPS for skirmishing purposes and still having the advantages of using CO2 (gas consistency, little cool down, able to use in winter, etc.). I dunno whether you guys can source that part into Canada though...
Quote:
Originally Posted by StrikeFreedom
For your nozzle sticking to mag seal issue, try to use a stiffer nozzle return spring (top of BBU) to help spring back the nozzle. Personally I use a spring from a lighter. Having the mag seal sitting higher gives you better air seal with the nozzle. In fact, instead of purchasing Nineball/aftermarket mag seal, you can put a shim underneath the stock mag seal to yield similar if not the same effect.
Why can't we get free green gas here?
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I'm using a guarder 150% spring already and the gun doesn't go back into battery (or its VERY sluggish when it does). The NB gas router sits about .5mm higher than the stock 1911 router and that's already creating enough friction to prevent the slide from properly cycling.
I haven't tried using a lighter's spring as the nozzle return spring. I'll try it out when I can source it and report back to you guys since my NB routers are just sitting on a shelf right now.
I completely agree with your argument that getting the router rubber to sit higher would create an even better air seal (and I could tell as the muzzle report was louder when I installed the NB routers). But it's sitting too high and I don't want to have a 'perfect' air seal but have crappy slide cycling issues.
I'm actually in my University's wargaming society, so I'm basically using their green gas for plinking/wargaming. It's paid for by the University, so it's 'free' for me
(part of the society's constitution; free gas for members) The gas routers are also 'free' since I can always reimburse myself by 'selling' them to the society as they have a couple of high capas with worn out mag gas routers so there's always a use for the NB router set.