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Old September 24th, 2010, 22:22   #445
m102404
Tys
 
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Toronto
Lots...sometimes. It's a "stick-tion" fit. Surprising that something on so tight can actually move...but those are the forces these rifles move around with.

The exterior condition of it does not matter at all...so gripping it with big adjustable pliers doesn't matter.

I found that I could really move tight ones by twisting it as I move it...a little thin/light lube helps (clean it off after though).

Or...take the piston out of the carrier...brace the back of the piston body (black tube) on something softish (shop towel on a bench), use a monkey wrench to put on the top of the plastic spacer but not gripping the tube at all and then use a light touch with a hammer to nudge it down bit by bit.

Get it clean, dry...free of oils. The spacer and the tube. Then use a touch of saliva or water to lube it just a bit and put the spacer back on. Note that it usually goes on just a bit ahead of the actual base of the piston body when it's all snugged up in the bolt carrier. just before you get it into final position...use a drop or three of crazy glue (cyanoacrylic) to fix it in place. Super glue needs water to activate (thus the water/saliva)...depending on the setup time of the glue you can try to apply it so that you get as much as possible between the tube and the spacer to hold it in place. I think that Red/perm loctite would do it to...but if I used that I'd coat it well before putting it on...loctite sets up in the absence of air. Let sit to fully cure before shooting it.

OR

tap the side of the spacer when it's in position and pin it in place with a small set/grub screw. The screw can't/won't back out if you position it so it's trapped by the bolt carrier when the piston assembly is screwed back into the bolt carrier. (hope that makes sense). I did that to mine and it hasn't moved since. Won't be a mess to take apart if I have to like gluing would be.

Tys
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