So i finally finished the frame of my 5.1 with my Gloss Clear Duracoat.. Here's the entire process I did.
First, I sanded it with 600, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grid sandpaper and polished it with aluminum polish until i achieved a mirror finish. Even though a mirror finish isnt what I was aiming for, it is required since a clear coat would slightly dull the color to a chrome finish.
Next, the masking began. I didn't use masking tape because it would leave some sticky residue. Instead I used a rubber type of tape that is perfect for masking.
Prior to airbrushing, I used the Duracoat TruStrip to remove any oil and dirt. Then I began to airbrush. I didnt use the can of propellent, but instead, used my compressor since I was able to adjust the PSI from 10-100psi. I chose 30psi so the paint wouldnt spray thick.
I sprayed each side of the frame ensure that it was allowed to lie flat for curing. I gave it a few hours before I did the other side. After the first coat, you can tell that the paint left a textured surface which I didn't like. Some people might like it, but it didn't really match my slide. You can try to lightly sand the frame, but it left a dull white color which I didn't like. Here are some pics of the textured surface
So instead, I started from scratch again. I resanded the entire slide until it was a mirror finish again. Instead of airbrushing, I got a very soft brush and applied the clear coat instead. To my surprise, the results were much better and didn't leave a textured look. When I applied the paint, I DID NOT stroke the brush on the frame because I didn't want to leave stroke marks. Instead, I dabbed the paint on the frame and allowed the paint to spread. The results are much more desirable. I gave it 1-2 days for each side of the frame to cure before I painted the next side. I also used a lid to cover the painted surface so that dust or lint doesn't land on the paint. The drawback about this method is that after it dries, you can see some small air bubbles, which I had no control over. When you first apply the paint, there are no bubbles, they only appear after. If there were lots of bubbles, i had to redo the entire surface. It all depends on your luck.
Just a note, I DID NOT paint my slide, I only sanded it to give it a nice brush look CNC surface. Next, I cleaned my slide to remove all dirt and grease from the crevices and engravings using a toothbrush and some Q-tips..
Finally, here is how the frame looks with the slide. You can see there are some black stuff at the corners of the frame, it was because I wasn't able to reach in to those small areas and sand it. However, most of the corners wont be visible since the grip will be covering over it. Here are some pics with the hand controls
I've tried many paints, from Krylon, to testors to Tamiya paint, and the Duracoat is the best compared to the 3. The paint is VERY sticky and it leaves a very tough hard surface. Sometimes sanding wont even remove the paint, you would have to use a flat head screw driver to peel it off. I had to paint and restrip several times to learn the properties of the paint, its curing time, and find the best method of application. It took alot of experimentation and time, but it was worth it. I still have 1/2 a bottle left which is more than enough for a few more frames (depending on how many coats you put). Overall, the paint is good, but it is not perfect. Obviously, the frame looks much better if its just sanded without the coat, but then it will oxidize. By applying this paint, hopefully, it will not oxidize, but you might see a few air bubbles here and there depending on your luck and the type of brush you use. So its a compromise that you need to make. This is my take based on my experience with this paint. The key when using this paint is PATIENCE and PREPARATION. If you dont have them, you will surely mess up, and your results will be undesirable.
I will post up some more pics when my gun is done, which should be shortly..