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KiloSixNiner July 1st, 2009 09:58

Buncha questions..
 
Hello everyone!
I'm new to both this site and this game/sport/hobby(which is correct?) and have some questions I wanted to ask. Some are straight info questions, others are debate questions. I am just trying to learn so I can bring myself along to the level of a true MilSim player.

1. Metal/Partly clear guns. So from what I have assesed a full metal remake is a replica ..something something, blah, illegal, but many of the voices I hear around here say clearsoft is not 'real' airsoft. So, the question is: Can I get any respect playing with, say a G&G clear reciever AEG that cost me $300+?

2. BB weight and FPS. Even though I slept through most of grade 12 math, I understand that a higher weight means a loss of FPS, my questions are:
a) How does the weight change range?
b) How does the weight effect impact?

3. Hop-up systems. Again, slept through grade 12 math, but I understand how backspin works. Questions:
a) Is there a standard - left=more, right=less on the adjusters?
b) What is the best/most accurate way to test/set it?

4. Teams. I am looking at starting a squad/team with some friends but am unsure how to go about it. My questions are:
a) Do I just pick a name and go with it?
b) How many people are generally in a squad/team?
c) Where can I get local tactical training?

I think that about covers it for now. If you could, it would be awesome if you could label your answers so I know what you're talking about. Sorry for the length and if it seems like a math test, just trying to get all the questions asked in as few posts as possible.

Thx in advance.

kalnaren July 1st, 2009 10:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by KiloSixNiner (Post 1016841)
Hello everyone!
I'm new to both this site and this game/sport/hobby(which is correct?) and have some questions I wanted to ask. Some are straight info questions, others are debate questions. I am just trying to learn so I can bring myself along to the level of a true MilSim player.

1. Metal/Partly clear guns. So from what I have assesed a full metal remake is a replica ..something something, blah, illegal, but many of the voices I hear around here say clearsoft is not 'real' airsoft. So, the question is: Can I get any respect playing with, say a G&G clear reciever AEG that cost me $300+?
Yea, noone really cares. It's more of a person preference thing. However, full black guns are not illegal. They're just prohibited from importation.

Personally, I think the halfbreeds are overpriced considering you can get a full black -and sometimes full metal gun of superior quality- for as little as $150-$200 more. Sometimes full black JG guns are actually less than the halfbreeds.


2. BB weight and FPS. Even though I slept through most of grade 12 math, I understand that a higher weight means a loss of FPS, my questions are:
a) How does the weight change range?
Higher weight generally increases effective range. Although the BB may not go physically as far, it will be stable in flight longer, resulting in less course deviation.

b) How does the weight effect impact?
You feel heavier BB's more. Furthermore, a heavier round won't be deflected (as much) by a piece of grass or a squarell fart as much as a lighter one.

3. Hop-up systems. Again, slept through grade 12 math, but I understand how backspin works. Questions:
a) Is there a standard - left=more, right=less on the adjusters?
If they turn left or right. Some guns, like the G3 and G36, have a barrel hopup that rotates around the barrel.

b) What is the best/most accurate way to test/set it?
Outdoors before you play. Hop-up isn't static. It will change with temperature, air pressure, BB weight, etc. I readjust mine before every game.

4. Teams. I am looking at starting a squad/team with some friends but am unsure how to go about it. My questions are:
a) Do I just pick a name and go with it?
b) How many people are generally in a squad/team?
There are no "official" rules or anything on teams. As long as everyone is 18+, you'll be fine. For example -some teams like the Blackbears and Wolfpack have been around a while and have established rules/kit/guidlines the team members follow. Other teams, like my own, is just a loose collection of friends with a name and a cool logo that play together.

c) Where can I get local tactical training?
TACC3 in Toronto is the only place I know of, but I'm sure there are others.

Anymore questions feel free to ask.

KiloSixNiner July 1st, 2009 10:58

Awesome! thx for the info, I forgot 1 thing though. I wanted a rating on the cheapy starter set I got, gives me an idea of what is to come.

Currently slinging the M4 field duty kit(A17 R.I.S. and the MK IV) and an older(5 yrs or so) M16 spring rifle.

L473ncy July 1st, 2009 12:16

... If that's what I think it is then you should probably save that stuff for basement/garage target shooting.

It's probably better to get a black gun once you're AV'ed.

I'm not saying it's total crap just you probably don't want to field it and should save it for plinking.

If you can't wait then the clear G&G guns are an option and are pretty good. Just pick something you like and you can slap in upgrades as you see fit to bring the performance up to par with a different model of rifle (eg an M4 might not have the same range/accuracy/speed as it's M16 counterpart but you can always get a tightbore, new hopup and rubber and do a spring change).

I don't believe that many standard hop ups actually will let you go left and right but you can go up and down. I know there are some that allow you to go left and right but I haven't seen too many of those TBH.

To start a team just get a group of people and play together under a team name. This isn't a regulated sport it's just a community. You can start a team like that, even with one person you could be a "one man army" (hey what do you know that's a pretty good team name). Most teams however have a set goal for the members (eg. a WWI reenactors team would obviously require WWI kit, and WWI weapons, whereas a PMC team might be more flexible and just as long as your kit makes you look badass you're in) if you want to start a team think it through and set some goals and the kind of image you want to portray whether it's a weekend warrior thing, or if you're a once in a while group of friends who play.

kalnaren July 1st, 2009 12:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by L473ncy (Post 1016899)
I don't believe that many standard hop ups actually will let you go left and right but you can go up and down. I know there are some that allow you to go left and right but I haven't seen too many of those TBH.

I think "left and right" was referring to the direction of the dial.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KiloSixNiner (Post 1016874)
Awesome! thx for the info, I forgot 1 thing though. I wanted a rating on the cheapy starter set I got, gives me an idea of what is to come.

Currently slinging the M4 field duty kit(A17 R.I.S. and the MK IV) and an older(5 yrs or so) M16 spring rifle.

Well, let me put it this way, if it isn't an Aftermath gun or didn't cost you $300, it's probably not field worthy.

KiloSixNiner July 2nd, 2009 09:26

Yeah, it's probobly what you're thinking, and I am using it as a 'plinking' gun. The AEG itself is only 300fps so I know it's not field worthy, like I said, just a cheapy starter gun to feed my desire to shoot and begin working tactics a bit. More looking at the loadout of the weapons instead of the quality worry.. I already know DPMS are gonna be shit, and yes I and a few friends of mine are just itchin' to get AV so we can get some decent rifles at a fair price.

coach July 2nd, 2009 10:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by KiloSixNiner (Post 1017327)
Yeah, it's probobly what you're thinking, and I am using it as a 'plinking' gun. The AEG itself is only 300fps so I know it's not field worthy, like I said, just a cheapy starter gun to feed my desire to shoot and begin working tactics a bit. More looking at the loadout of the weapons instead of the quality worry.. I already know DPMS are gonna be shit, and yes I and a few friends of mine are just itchin' to get AV so we can get some decent rifles at a fair price.

300fps is fieldable. my I field my AK spetsnaz is 280fps on .2's

KiloSixNiner July 2nd, 2009 10:16

I was under the understanding I wanted 350+ for field use, is that wrong? The M4 I have has a range of 117 feet listed on the box.. is there much better from better guns/upgrades?

m102404 July 2nd, 2009 10:31

Get one first...play with it. Then figure out if you need to upgrade/tweak anything at all. LOTS of guys start out with 280-320fps rifles....indoor and outdoor.

There's less risk that you're rifle will fail, it'll work better/smoother, batteries will last longer, you can run indoors and outdoors without changing anything, etc....lots of upsides to lower FPS.

You'll spend more time playing than spending time/money on upgrading your rifle...and then more time/money "fixing" your upgrade.

Playing with a reliable rifle is A LOT more fun than being down and out because your rifle self destructed during a game (or the evening before a game).

Aegiis July 2nd, 2009 11:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by KiloSixNiner (Post 1017345)
I was under the understanding I wanted 350+ for field use, is that wrong? The M4 I have has a range of 117 feet listed on the box.. is there much better from better guns/upgrades?

350 - 400 is a limit, not a goal.

My MP5 chronies at around 320-325 (for inside use) but is quite competitive for exterior games, so is my AK. And with my AK, downgrading the spring is softer on the rest of the internals, which helps it running longer with the stock innards

L473ncy July 2nd, 2009 11:49

Personally I feel that unless you're playing in a small or CQB field you should want at least 330+ FPS.

FPS isn't everything as we advise new players here but you can't take that to the extreme. Take this, a 230 FPS rifle versus a 290 FPS rifle playing on a largeish field with wide open areas perfect for longer range engagements. Which would you rather take? I would take the 290 FPS rifle because at 230 FPS it really limits your effective range and should probably be used for CQB or when you're doing a closer engagement/ambush.

You don't however need 400 FPS to game on the same field, something like 290+ is acceptable (and hey, everyone in Japan games with 290 FPS or lower guns no matter what kind of field they're playing at).

If you want to play on CQB fields and on a larger outdoor field it's probably in your best interest to find "the magic number" (330 FPS probably) so that you can play effectively on both kinds of fields with the same gun. If you're not going to play on outdoor fields then a 360-380 FPS gun is probably what you should be aiming for.

Just a note if you're at 300 FPS thats actually perfect for CQB games and you shouldn't do anything with it except maybe paint over the "active camo". It probably will break eventually but for the amount of fun that you can have in a CQB game or plinking in the basement it's probably worth it to run it to the ground then get a new one that will last.

KiloSixNiner July 2nd, 2009 11:59

ok ok, I see now. So burn this into the ground, then get a decent metal one that runs around 330-350 fps for both cqb and outdoor use.. I got that right now?

kalnaren July 2nd, 2009 18:23

Get the FPS thing out of your head. FPS means jack shit for an airsoft gun. What matters is the quality of the components and quality of the build, and the quality and weight of the ammo. FPS is also so easy to change that it really should be far down on your list when selecting a gun.

Ask Crunchmeister.. his Real Sword Type 56 shoots ar like 330, and he constantly comments on how it's the best shooting, longest ranged gun in his collection.

Yea, for outdoor play you'll probably want something shooting at least 330 so you can fire 0.25g BB's.. but that's not necessarily true. My MP5 shoots at 275 at works great. I just need to get a bit closer to use it effectively.

KiloSixNiner July 3rd, 2009 00:37

Right, FPS gone. For now I'm gonna focus on a good base that can be upgraded as nessicary. I'm leaning towards the M4 style. Any good suggestions?


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