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-   -   Loss of FPS, After upgrades (https://airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=162100)

Chromey February 1st, 2014 18:09

Loss of FPS, After upgrades
 
Before upgrades on my G@G M4 I had a 375 fps.

I change
-SHS 7 tooth piston
-Prom piston Head
-Lonex cylinder
-ZCI Full Type 0 cylinder
-Lonex Nozzle
-Lonex 50 hop-up

After changing these Im getting 310fps with 0 hop-up, 120 with full hop-up.

Not sure whats going on.

I have great seals now, Not like before?

Please advise. Anything?

Wrath144 February 1st, 2014 18:21

Chances are you need a ported cylinder, like the one you may have had. If you are over voluming, your cylinder has more air volume than the ideal for your barrel length, so the bb is out of the barrel before the piston reaches full speed, resulting in a lower FPS. If it's a regular M4 barrel length (14.5"/363mm) then you need a Type 1 ported cylinder.

Ron-E February 1st, 2014 18:36

Check and double check your air seal, if you are confident enough that you've perfected it and still having problems then check that t your piston is moving freely, if there is friction it will not return as fast causing low FPS. I've had similar issues with the SHS 7 metal tooth piston, will do a little more research to find the cause

Chromey February 1st, 2014 19:00

Wrath, Good suggestion, But its the not ported for a 509mm barrel, Just like the stock cylinder.

Ron-E I think you might be on too something. I found the 7tooth too be a little bitchy for the piston head install.

I might switch back too the systema and check that.

Chromey February 2nd, 2014 11:29

Noticed the air nozzle gets stuck in the back position after firing.
I opened the gearbox and noticed the tappet plate stuck against the cylinder,
So I reseated it and tested it again, And again The tappet plate flexed and got stuck.

So ill order a new tappet plate, Then retest.

Ron-E February 2nd, 2014 11:46

Are you putting back the spring for the tappet plate?http://i60.tinypic.com/6s5lxh.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chromey (Post 1864075)
Noticed the air nozzle gets stuck in the back position after firing.
I opened the gearbox and noticed the tappet plate stuck against the cylinder,
So I reseated it and tested it again, And again The tappet plate flexed and got stuck.

So ill order a new tappet plate, Then retest.


Chromey February 2nd, 2014 11:48

Good suggestion, But yes im putting the spring back.

The flex is when the sector gear spins, The tappetplate flexes too much and gets stuck on the piston.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/196/vdrp.png

Bahhwa February 6th, 2014 19:13

I have this same problem in my King Arms M4
- Yes i attach the spring to both the tappet plate and the spot on the gearbox
- I put a new tappet plate in and it still happens, The nozzle does not spring back

Any guesses what this could be?

Thanks guys!

Chromey February 6th, 2014 20:10

Very limited info online about this.

Its getting too be stupid. I put a brand new SHS tappetplate in, Same problem.,

Did you re-shim your gearbox or leave it as is?

I found this Vid on Youtube, The first half is the problem I have, Starting at 36sec. I don't have any misfeeding issues.
AND just too clear it up, I don't have that Ear splitting motor whine either LOL.
Airsoft AEG: Tappet Plate and Air Nozzle Troubleshoot - YouTube

Rusty Lugnuts February 6th, 2014 20:12

sand the new tappet plate- it's too wide

Chromey February 6th, 2014 20:30

The Stock plate work fine for years, Then stopped working, That is why I tried the SHS, And it does the same.

Ron-E February 6th, 2014 21:56

Can you post some pictures of what the gearbox looks like all put together and also how it ends up when you try and cycle it?? That would help a lot

Stealth February 6th, 2014 22:06

After assembling the gearbox, you should be able to push the tappet plate back and forth.

Renegade) February 6th, 2014 22:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stealth (Post 1865742)
After assembling the gearbox, you should be able to push the tappet plate back and forth.

Just to add to this, because I know alot of people make the mistake of testing the movement on all their parts without screws or atleast pressure on the two halves of the mechbox. You need to test the movement with screws holding the two halves together and test both the piston movement, and the tappet plate.

As Stealth said, after the mechbox is assembled and screwed together, push the nozzle in and out, if its got any resistance at all, fine grit sand it until it moves in its grooves smoothly, add a little grease.
Do the same thing, only without a spring and gears and such, with the piston, move it back all the way and forward and test for resistance.

Bahhwa February 6th, 2014 23:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Renegade) (Post 1865747)
Just to add to this, because I know alot of people make the mistake of testing the movement on all their parts without screws or atleast pressure on the two halves of the mechbox. You need to test the movement with screws holding the two halves together and test both the piston movement, and the tappet plate.

As Stealth said, after the mechbox is assembled and screwed together, push the nozzle in and out, if its got any resistance at all, fine grit sand it until it moves in its grooves smoothly, add a little grease.
Do the same thing, only without a spring and gears and such, with the piston, move it back all the way and forward and test for resistance.

When i was putting the mechbox back together it worked fine, once i shot on semi auto that's when the nozzle got stuck, after a few shots on full auto is would go back to being able to be pressed in and it springs back, then semi again and it gets stuck... so on so forth.

if and when i take it back apart i will take pictures of it , i just saw this thread and figured id post about it too

Thanks guys


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