MOSFET UNIT Questions
 

Im looking at a mosfet unit for my VFC FN SCAR L and idk what i the defference between having to Solder one on or the one that plugs into the battery

"Solder" Wow butchered that one!

I know that the more complicated ones that are wired into your trigger and motor are better and have more options. However for mosfet knowledge I'll leave it to the experts in that area.

The ones you have to solder will actually protect your trigger contacts (assuming you solder it correctly).

Even if you plug your MOSFET, you have to change some connections.

See last pic here:
http://airsoftaustria-tech.blogspot....-tutorial.html

If you need the text you can use google-translate.

the plug in types will only allow you to use burst functions on your gun i do believe.

the wired ones will do alot more depending on the style you get. there are SMU's and full mosfets. SMU's *simple mosfet unit* will only change your trigger assembly so that you can run very strong very high C batteries without melting your trigger.

then there are full mosfets. they have a variety of things they can do depending on the make/brand you buy. they should have the SMU feature aswell as a burst function. they can be programmed depending on the make/brand. there is a huge list as to what these can do.

both SMU and Mosfet will increase trigger response, which is a good thing obviously. however if your gun is running under 400fps and/or regular ROF *less then 9.6vni-mh* the trigger response is all you might need out of your SMU/,mosfet.

in my opinion the main reason someone should get a mosfet is to save your trigger from running strong batteries, by which i mean 11.1v lipos with high C rating and the like.

** 2 out of 3 of my personal AEGS have SMU's. one because it shoots 420fps with a 11.1v lipo and the other because it shoots 350fps with a 11.1v lipo for ROF**

good to know i just wanna set it for a CQB or a Indoor games

Installing a mosfet has nothing to do with setting a gun for indoor games....

As for the VFC scar, since the battery space is really small, you ahve 2 options

- Rewire the mosfet somewhere else in the gun (most ppl put it on top of the gearbox, preventing the bolt from locking
- install Switch assembly integrated mosfet (AKA the AWS Raptor fet)

I chose the 2nd option, and am currently waiting for my Raptor fet to arrive

PS: I hope you know your way around a mechbox, becaus eyou might have to disassemble it to install a mosfet!

Let us all know how your install goes Paul!

Will do! I should be receiving all the stuff i ordered in about 2-3 weeks! (some stuff were back ordered... and ACMgear still hasnt shipped my order.... (it's been 2 weeks.... -_-")

I'll also try to write a small tutorial on how to install the raptor on the VFC Scar + rewire the stock with 16AWG silicon wire, XT60 connector, and remove the fuse! (I think it should answer lots of question about those guns...)

I plan on getting a Raptor in 3 weeks if there's any left. As much as I'd love to be able to install it, I have never been inside a mechbox.( I only have 1 AEG and I don't want to destroy it.) It Looks like I'll have to take it to a gun Doc. Any idea what this might cost me to get it installed? ( sorry for the hi jack ). Just a rough estimate, I plan on emailing Venture about it soon.

about 20$+/hour....

BTW:Ehn I started, I watched alot of videos + I practiced opening gearboxes on a Cheap aeg from Canadian tire! great way to lear your way around one... and the best aprt is, when your done... just return it and say its non functionnal! XD

I'd predict that you're looking around $50-60 maybe a bit more for just a straight up installation (you supply parts).

If you're able to, ask if you can bring a 6 pack and pizza and ask the gundoc to show you how to install it. That way you get it installed "professionally" (hopefully) and you can also learn a bit about your gun and how to do work on it in the future (and/or troubleshoot things). A few things you might want to learn about while you're in there are;

- compression (how to check it, and how to change out compression parts (this is dead simple if you remember anything from high school physics) and lube it properly with "air seal" grease and whatever)
- spring changes
- shimming
- gear regrease (one of my secrets is to use something like Finishline Teflon dry lube, it's much better than the crappy white lithium that cakes up and eventually gets "gunky", and also since it sticks on "dry" it doesn't attract as much particulate matter like dust and sand which can gunk up gears (really helpful if you play in sandpits and really dry areas or whatever)).

Have you ever used paintball lube for gearboxes?

I'm talking about Dow33 type of lubes, (I have a jar of HaterSauce green lube, and its feels like it could be use with gearboxes, since it doesnt freeze, and is great for lubing seals and metal on metal...but couldnt find any info for that application....)

synthetic works best in my experience.
Through hot and cold, and keeps an excellent seal on O-rings.
Remember all your sealing is rubber on metal, not metal on metal, so make sure it doesn't have any petroleum.

White lithium is good as long as you take your gun apart once or twice a season, but otherwise synthetic is the way to go.

I had a Raptor installed in my VFC M4 by my gun doc and I love it. Programming is very easy, trigger response is amazing. Once I run LiPo is should get even better.