Ca m24
 

I just bought a used M24 It fired well at first and now I when I try to pull back then move foward the bolt it won't go back all the way, it wont go far enough in to allow the arm to move back down. I took the back of bolt off and then the arm. I noticed that It's missing 3 of the 5 bearings. The innards are all laylax.....Please help...

Make sure there isn't a squished BB in between your hopup and cylinder head. I had that happen once.

Mag
 

I found that the mag I used was faulty. I have no idea how to get in there and check for a squashed BB. Sounds to me like that might the case! I will have to try and find a break down how to.
Thanks for your help

1) if your mag is empty and inside the gun, it will not move all the way foreward.
Eject the mag and see if it works, if not, theres a BB jammed.

2) theres only 3 ball bearings on the M24, not 5. one for each of the 3 springs in the 3 holes.

Ball bearings
 

Thanks for the info. I have cleared the gun of the bb bits that were jammed in the gun. The mag will not fit into the gun and the end of the bolt where the ballbearing were does not sit right. I have lost all the ballbearings now and It will cock, but not correctly and the arm is loose. It looked to me like one of the small springs is bent to the side flat. Thats not on the back of the bolt but the arm.
Thanks guys for your help

The mag follower prevents the cylinder from fully engaging when empty. Be careful when you are loading a fresh round, if the bolt doesn't go full forward, the mag is empty and you risk ruining your mag's feed lips if you try to force it.

Cocking the rifle when the muzzle is pointed up can cause a BB to pop off the mag (if it has damaged feelips) and roll backwards into the receiver, which also prevents your cylinder from seating fully forward. You'll likely hear the BB rolling around in there if this is the case. Put the muzzle on the ground or foot, and with cylinder full back and mag removed, you can roll and shake the BB out. Saves you from dismantling the gun, useful in the field.

The springs and ball bearings in the rear of the cylinder really only keep the bolt handle from bouncing around, they don't do much else and aren't mandatory to have in place. Make sure your handle boss (the end cap) screw has thread locker applied and left to dry after tightening down. There should be enough play to let the handle rotate smoothly, but not enough to make it feel really floppy.

^---- +1

The bearings are only for getting that nice smooth clicking sound when your bolt locks and unlocks, remove the springs if youve lost the bearings, as they will only damage further. Use threadlock, the blue stuff on the bolt lever screw, once youve found a replacement for the springs/ball bearings then remove the bolt lever, replace and threadlock again.

Your magazine will not go into the gun if
1) Its loaded FULLY to 25 rounds. You can only have 24, and +1 in the chamber, otherwise there is no space for the nozzle.
2) If your hop up chamber is slightly twisted, it will chop the feed lips of your mag a bit on the sides, preventing it from sliding in.

I also recommend using a very light silicone grease on the cylinder itself. The lubrication it comes with out of the factory sucks, and you'll end up scratching up your nice chrome cylinder (assuming you have a V3) and the cocking is much chunkier. A VERY LIGHT coating of silicone grease will smoothen it up significantly and reduce the friction noise of cocking.

M24
 

Man I love the ASC! You guys are great help! Okay I have removed the springs and lubed things up nicely. I will have to wait until tomorrow to the lock tight. As for now the gun still wont feed bbs into it. I just bet you I have damaged the feed lips...hmm almost sounds rude! So If the feed lips are screwed then what should I do?
I have ordered a new laylax piston and head. I also found a new cocking arm with the springs and ballbearings. Those are all on the way.
I Love this weapon. I will love it even more when it starts working again. while it was working I was shooting quarters at almost 20 feet.

Just a heads up, the V2 Aftermarket Forged Cocking Lever will not fit on a V3, as it is slightly larger. If thats the case, salvage the springs and bearings and use the old lever.

Feed lips are part of the mag. If you fuck those up, your screwed as getting replacement mags is pretty much impossible.

To be sure that my BBs get fed properly, I load my mags untill I can still move the BBs inside by pressing on the top one. I guess I could still put 2 more and the mag would be full. That way, I ensure that the feeding lips are not overstressed and when the BB is chambered, if the mag is not seating perfecly tight to the rifle chamber, at least the action won't bend the lips from the BB pressure.

Lips will get bitten by the nosel ever time. I went trough a mag and I have 2 mores that will soon fail. That's why I keep stock of a few more mags still in their original boxes. So you have to baby the mags you've got. They are hard to find these days.

M24
 

Again thanks guys.

I'm really not sure what version of this weapon I have. I bought it off Ghillie23 the add is still up on page 8 I believe. Thats a good Idea about the after market parts. If it doesnt fit then I will canabalize them. I have 4 mags, one is truely screwed the spring won't come back up and the end of the spring is twisted. The other 3 mags seem fine, but wont load in.

V2..

Theres only 2 V3's in Canada as far as Im aware, Mine, and one other guy.

V3 CA M24's are extremely rare.

Feedlips largely get damaged by trying to force the cylinder forward when the mag is empty (as I said). A fix I've been using for years (literally, the three mags I have get this repeated as necessary), is to cut small peices of brass off from thin stock found at the local hobby shop. Cut and shape them to the same size as the two sides of the feedlips. Smooth and polish, then Krazy Glue in place. Use gun blue to make them black. They tend to last a year or two (LOTS of rounds worth, like well over a thousand), when they pop off and get lost, make more. Feedlips when busted, tend to do one of two things, either feed fine or double feed. The mags are really simple to disassemble/reassemble, literally just three pins hold it all together. Useful for swapping parts, or opening up to clean.

Also, the nature of the mag system on the CA M24, if you are having feeding problems, press the mag up into the magwell when pushing the cylinder forward. If they feed, here's what you do (I did it to Fox's after I did mine and he swears by it). Buy a velcro strap for sleeping bags, and cut it to about 8-10" long. Wrap it around the stock and slide over the mag, it should press it up, yet still slide out of the way to allow mag changes.

I should address the proper way to cock the rifle. Grab the bolt handle overhand, with your thumb on the handle boss, and pull back. Don't grab the ball of the handle with an underhand grip, it'll likely jam up on you. Doubt it'll ever break, but it's incorrect anyways. Once cocked, slide the bolt forward and feel the next round feed, don't try to to it fast unless you are well practiced with it. With the correct way you can pull even a really heavy spring easily (I once got cleared to use mine set at 587fps and didn't have much problem with cocking it).

M24 V2 Cocking handles do break. Ive heard many stories regarding this and due to their forged casting in the V2 they just become brittle and snap, It doesnt really surprise me either. The V3's are C&C cut, they will bend before they break.

I always cradle the whole rear of the bolt with my thumb and index, pulling the lever with my 3rd 4rth and 5th fingers. This prevents the Cylinder from bending from the force of yanking on the handle. Its recommended for low fps springs (450, CA Stock fps), but its pretty much required with higher fps setups.

My old V2 Cocking handle did snap and I barely even pulled it back, I would be very careful when cocking the gun.