I think my mechbox seized?
 

so i was FINALLY getting it working, and pft, there it goes.
now all i get when pulling the trigger is a twist from the motor inside the grip. the battery is fully charged, motor spins fine when not in the grip, but like i said, when everything is in there, all it does is give have a second of a spin, and it clicks.

any suggestions??

You'll have to open up your mechbox, sounds like the piston maybe locked back and seized in place. What type of AEG is this?
If its a version 2 or 3, I recommend one of these:
http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...roducts_id=674

In the future when your mechbox locks up all you need to do is remove the mechbox and twist the screw head from the outside of the mechbox to release the spring. Alot easier than opening the mechbox each time.

polarity reversed, shimming too tight, or you could be using an undersized battery with small gage wires and standard gears to try and pull back a 400fps spring.

its a ca m4 body, with one of huangs mechboxs.
t7, dont all m4 mechboxs have an anti reversal latch? iv got an extra one from my old CA box, but im sure every mechbox iv seen has one in it?

That latch has a notch in it so you can turn it from the outside to release the gears. It's so you don't have to crack open the mechbox.

All mechboxes have an anti-reversal latch. TokyoSeven is suggesting that you replace your stock latch with Modify's aftermarket version, which allows you to trip the latch without opening the mechbox.

So you've never opened the mechbox before, it's still stock from the factory? Can you see the piston through the window towards the rear of the mechbox? If the piston seized, it should show up at least partially.

You don't have to open the mechbox to release the anti reversal latch anyway, on a V2 you just need to remove the motor and pistol grip, reach in with a hex wrench or a nail with its end bend 90 degrees and pull down on it.

i havent opened THIS mechbox yet. i dont want to have to either. thankfully, the piston is NOT locked back, because im not going to have the patience in the next few days to open it up. i will be trying that hex key trick to try and release it, so thanks for that bit of info.

i had that problem when i got my custom built echo 1 gearbox for in my sl-8. my 8.4v's and my 9.6's wouldnt move the gears at all and i was like aw crap. then i hooked up the lipoly battery i got with my ika zuchi m4, it shot just fine til the fuses started blowing in my re-wired mauri ext. wires fuse box so i had to go buy some stronger fuses

If your motor is managing to get the pistol pulled all the way to the back but just can't quite pull it that extra half an inch needed for it to cycle, read below.

If you know your motor is fine, if your shimming is good, if everything seems to work and you've tried ENDLESSLY to get the bastard to go that last little bit and it won't...

You may have to strip the entire thing down to it's parts and replace the wiring. That was my problem. Took me 8 months to figure that out until I received a tip from FNG.

If your piston gets stuck in the rear position, 9 times out of 10 I find its from lack of sufficient power to the motor.

lol, im using a massive battery, 3000nimh, 9.6 i belive.
its fully charged. and have tried other batteries as well.

I'm having the exact same problem with my Type 89. Pulled it apart and put it back together dozens of times and it always compresses the spring to just that last few millimeters and stops.

Problem for me is, the trigger/switch assembly is radically different from any others I have seen. And I cant find a replacement anywhere, let alone upgrades with better wiring. Same with the gears, I think they are just different enough that they need gears just for the v8 gearbox. So upgrading those seems to not be an option for me atm.

I'm only trying to upgrade to a 110 spring, and when i put the stock spring back in it works fine. Since I have never ordered a custom piston/piston head before I was thinking of doing that. That metal chunk that the TM stock spring latches onto inside the piston seems to fill a fair amount of space and I was thinking without that the spring would have the room to fully compress. Or do aftermarket piston/piston heads have this same big hunk o metal inside? (the type 89 seems to have stock TM piston + head)

Aftermarket piston heads generally do not have a big chunk of metal acting as a spacer. Most do have bearings that take up some space, but not quite as much.

You can get TM OEM parts by contacting leonardinjapan at hotmail dot com with the part number.

I had a guy trying to use a 10.8v 1400mah to crank a 400fps spring. I could get the gun to fire with an 8.4v 4200mah, but suffice it to say he needs torque up gears and I might replace his 18gage wire with 14gage.
It can be the motor itself causing the issue as well, like if you have a TM EG1000, it won't provide as much torque as a systema magnum or G&P M140

EG1000 still will crank a 400fps spring pretty well on the battery he's using. If this is a motor problem, it's a dying motor problem, not because it's not an uprated motor.

thank you SO much.

finally got patient enough and sat down and tried it out today, got it firing pretty good.

but im still facing the problem of no full auto, and my STAR mags wont seat in properly, only my CA hicaps.

i loosened up my buffer tube, and it fired in full for a few minutes, but when i realized that the buffer tube was TOO loose, i had to tighten it slightly, and even the slightest tension, removes my full auto capability.

i dont really mind if my full auto doesnt work, i like counting my shots, while using locaps, but because of the mag problem, i can only use hicaps. :S

i had this problem with my mp5 and i thought it was the mechbox but all i really needed to was get a thicker gauge wires that connect between the battery from the mechbox. and all worked well i can't remeber what gauge i used tough... hope this could help you