[QUOTE=m102404;1113676
On another note....both Brian and I were shooting the M4 WETTI's last night at CQB and we were simply drilling guys. Mine's cut down to CQBR length and his is stock. I was shooting MB .28's through mine...don't know what Brian was using.

.[/QUOTE]

I was running .20 .. ran semi only .. but every time I pulled I hit .. I have to say my AS enjoyment had increased by a factor of 10 since I got this thing..

I have NEVER touched my hop-up from day 1 ... easily 3000 rounds through it to date.

Brian's and my own rifle are stock brass barrels and lime green hopup rubbers with just the ball bearing for a nub. The next time I take mine down I'll try something else for a nub. I'm certainly pleased with indoor CQB/big warehouse accuracy so far. I have not fielded mine outdoors (season sort of wrapped up by the time I got the chance to).

...so I'm not convinced that for this type of shooting you need a chrome lined barrel (wouldn't hurt though...:))

I do believe that I read something about the newer black hopup rubbers not fitting well with the "old" brass barrels but working well with the chromed ones.

In all honesty, the hopup design is so simple that it can be easily tweaked to work as long as the spec dimensions aren't wildly different.

Had similar results my last two times out. I was using TSD .28's with great results on Semi. On Full the results were less than stellar with erratic rounds galore which I mostly fault with cool warehouse temperatures. My first CO2 mag showed up at work but I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to pick it up.

just a note some guys on arnies are reporting that adding a aeg shim behind the bolt catch makes it run flawlessly. just thought this should be added to the summary! :D
http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forum...170736&st=6180

Thanks...did it work for yours?

Mine hasn't locked back for a while now, except when I rack it back manually.

Note: I do have it tuned down to 290-330 for indoors

I've disabled the bolt locking tab on all my mags for the time being.

Tys

Hey everyone, just an FYI for you all before I send a press release to the news sites - the Laser-cut Steel Valve Strikers (for SCAR & M4 AWSS, part #62) are up for pre-order in the 6mm Customs Shop.

There are only 100 units available, and pre-orders have already started coming in. If you want one, they probably won't last until the end of the month. Once these are gone - I don't know when I'll be able to get more made.

Just a heads-up 'cause I love all you ASC people the most, and I don't want you to be left without one. They are a must-have to prevent your valve-strikers from wearing down to a nub. I'm not posting a link to the product, because I don't want this message to lead to a "sales outside the ____ section" warning/ban - which it probably will anyways... but you guys should get first dibs.

just had my part 59 break on me... one of the bent-down bits that holds the valve knocker assy. in place. this is manchovies old m4 so its a V1/2 with a high round count. im pretty sure its the original part, so thats not too bad. anyone else had this kind of failure?

Im having problems with my SCAR's NPAS valve, as i fire it, it unscrews itself untill the valve is so far back that there isnt enought gas going backwards to even cycle it anymore, this happens over the course of only 1/2 a mag

From what I had heard...it was just about as easy to make your own out of sheet metal than it was to buy a replacement (although I think the replacements are more commonly available now).

I haven't seen one break yet...so I haven't been motivated to make any out the sheet metal I have on hand.

That's odd...the RATech valves that I've seen so far are pretty stiff to turn and haven't worked loose/out yet. Have you tried a dab of loctite?

I'm actually having a similar problem. Stupid question but I take it loctite is available in most hardware stores?

Ummm....yeah. LOL

Can Tire, most hardware stores, Home depot, etc... Loctite dries in absence of air (i.e. between threads where there's no air exposure).

Blue loctite is "temporary"...with a bit of regular force you can break the chemical bond. I have found it to be completely sufficient for my WE GBBR.

Red loctite is "permanent"...it is extremely hard to break the bond.

Heat will soften dried loctite so you can break the bond. Some guys have said that boiling water will do it...I use a couple of passes over a propane torch.

In a pinch, crazy glue can be used...but it's a real bugger to get out (i.e. treat as permanent). And it's not meant to fill voids (you're talking about the small non contacting surfaces between threads that loctite fills with "plastic")...but it'll usually work. Propane torch to loosen...don't breath the fumes that come off it.

Im also now having hopup problems? i havent fired the gun in a few weeks, and i changed to the NPAS valve yesterday, thats the only difference, but now it shoots about 50 feet then rockets groundwards, I took the barrel out and the hopup nub IS working, so i dont know what it could be, am I not supposed to use that nylon spacer thats on the original nozzle with the NPAS? is that making a difference?

Maybe you have it on the lowest FPS setting of the NPAS?
Airseal? Did you lube the o-rings before putting it in?

My understanding is that yes, you are supposed to use the original spacer and put it onto the new assembly.

Maybe you've gotten a bunch of oil on the rubber and it's not applying spin?

Yes I lubed it all up, but FPS should not affect hopup...

its not that it isnt applying spin, it seems like its making it go down FASTER, i cant figure it out