Oh glee! After returning from work irate and completely pissed off I managed to fix my gun!

So playing around I realised the gun would no longer go into safe anymore. This let to exploring beneath the safety selector with a flashlight and some toothpicks. I eventually dug out part #52 from way down in there (looks like it wasn't lost after all).

After deforming the end of the pin a little so it stays in the hammer assembly better I reinserted it. Reassembled and gun is shooting just fine again.

I made sure to not sit there and try firing my gun repeatedly while it was in this 'broken' condition. Thereby hopefully avoiding any unnecssary wear on any other parts. Just to play it safe though I ordered some extra internal bits and a replacement set for parts #50, #51 and #52 so when the time comes I can rebuild this thing.

Yay for not being useless! :D

Not sure it has already been posted here or if you have already tried this, but there is a mod posted on Arnies about adding a regular AEG shim behind the bolt catch which supposely makes it run flawlessly and catch most of the time as the bolt catch stays straight when the bolt catch plate pushes it up and it catches the bolt with a larger surface than before.

Add shim between the bolt catch and the receiver.
http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...ldcatchmod.jpg

I had problems with my pdw with it locking every shot, all I did was stretch the bolt catch spring, now it never locks till the mag is empty

Part # 27 is broken on my WE SCAR. Is there anyone who sells a replacment part? If you followm the red arrow it looks like there was a bubble in the metal from a poor casting.

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/9449/p1000034j.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/1452/p1000054r.jpg

Thought I'd update on this.

The fix I performed earlier managed to work for a few weeks and then I noticed the roller pin coming lose again. Tried further deforming the end of the pin with grooves on it in an attempt to get it to stop coming loose still when in place. This lasted another couple games until about 3/4 of the way through the FR Night game on July 3rd where at one point the gun jammed on me. After opening it up noticed the roller pin had once again found it's way down beneath the fire selector.

Fixed the problem this time by removing the trigger assembly and replacing the hammer/roller/roller pin combination with new parts. So far things seem to be solid.

I guess this doesnt happen on the WE Scar. J/k mine had the same problem when and where did you buy yours? Are you using CO2 or green gas? Any mods or upgrades?

No one sells that part I have to get the seller to order from WE. I tried asking airsoft buddy they said they will order it but there was no reply from them yet.
Maybe if more people ask then they would keep it in stock.

Hey guys,

Not to sure if someone have a problem with the bomber light bolt carrier for the Scar.
I tend to clean the gun every match and sooo I took 5 shot and this happen.

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/3484/img0367qg.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Edit: there is a slight wobble between the recievers, but it was like then when I got it and it shot fine. There's also a propain stain above the selector switch. Is that normal?

Hi again. So my pdw is still giving me trouble.

With the mag loaded, I insert it and then cock the bolt back but it it will not go forward. It locks until I push the mag release button. The mag falls out and the bolt goes forward. I then re insert the mag , fire a round, and the bolt locks back again. Sometimes it will let me fire off a few rounds til it locks back. The odd time it smashes the bb into pieces. I thought it was an issue with the mag so I bought a new one and still the same problem. It seems like the mag isn't sitting correctly because if I hold the mag up into the gun, it sometimes will fire normally. It started happening when I took the top reciever off so it might be a fitment issue between the recievers but everything was put back together correctly. Could it be the hairline crack on the bolt carrier? Thanks in advance.

Replace part #66. Even though the new versions are reinforced I would trust an after market Steel version more.

and now from the WETTI master himself.

[quote=m102404;1231456]The nozzle base is blue loctited onto the rod (ground it down a bit because it was too long). The nozzle body is blue loctited onto the base.

http://wem4guide.wdfiles.com/local--...ual/AWSS_3.jpg

Does anyone know if the Stinger Hop Up for the M4 series will work for the PDW?

Edit: msged RA-Tech, and they said that it's compatible.

Just a heads up for WE operators.

I found a local source for the nozzle o-ring (part #45). I personally haven't one fail but I like to keep extras handy just in case!!! The only snag is they require a minimum purchase of $25.00. I just bought a metric o-ring set which included 20 of them as well 29 other sizes for $23.00

http://www.globalrubber.com/

The o-ring size is 7mm ID with a cross section of 1.5mm (7mm x 1.5mm)

reason why I like the new ultra slick multipurpose grease is because you can lay on a really thin layer and it's effective for a long time. won't dry up or become gummy. a thicker layer in areas you want more works too because it'll stay put and doesn't get flung off with every shot.

I think it was Renegade) that told me the Ultra Slick is now what use to be Super Lube or it's a suitable alternative.

I'm doing a build with a RS upper, I've had Element, Allwin, and G&P MK18 RIS, and they all do not fit the RS or WE without mods to the barrel nut.

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=110862

Which way is your bolt moving? Side to side or parallel to the length of the gun?

LOL...so you're off of AEG's and GBB pistols too? I think there's a couple of entire forums filled with troubleshooting those....HAHAHA

But...point well taken. Time to thin this thread down.

******* NOTICE ********

I am going to review the entire thread. I will consolidate all the technical points made here and there throughout the thread and then ask a mod to delete all the others to trim this down.

Many an active thread becomes less than useful after a while because threre is just too much to read through...and that doesn't help someone hitting this thread for the first time to actually find what they want.

For anyone considering posting to this thread....there is the full expectation that you have read through the entire thread, considered the info here and how it may relate to your question. After an honest effort at that if you still have not found any clear/conscise points that address it, by all means post up.

If you have specific information that improves the information here (accuracy/content/updates)...please continue to generously provide that info and I will do my best to consolidate it.

If you don't take the time/effort to review all the info from others that has been graciously offered...then do not expect help in return. If I can, I'd simply have such a post flagged and deleted.

And....this isn't a shopping thread of where to buy stuff (there might be links though)...this isn't a "I want that"..."I'm selling an extra of this". Take it to Personal Messages or the Classifieds.

************************

Add on External Parts - Summary of what fits and what doesn't

*** this is not all my own info...this has been consolidated from numerous posts throughout this thread***

General
In general, real steel (RS) grips, stocks, handguards and externals fit the WE M4 series. I would tend to think that the RS grips fit the SCAR as well.
- RS trigger guards, grips, stocks fit the we gbbr's
- QLong is full of WIN
I'm doing a build with a RS upper, I've had Element, Allwin, and G&P MK18 RIS, and they all do not fit the RS or WE without mods to the barrel nut.

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=110862

Grips
- Also purchased a WA Pistol Grip -- which seems to fit fine on my WE M16 except I'll need to drill a hole to accommodate the fire selector pin/spring.

Trigger Guards
- what type of magpul enhanced trigger guard can fit on a we gbbr m4?
A - Real Steel or GBBR specific

Stocks
- G&P crane stock on their we? - yes, fit was good
- Magpul CTR fit fine...just a little bit of play

Stock Tubes
- If you get a RS stock, make sure that it's mil-spec
- UBR Stock tube
Actually now that I think about it did you have a problem with your rubber getting stuck in the buffer tube for the UBR? like I can push it all the way down.. not a big deal because it will stay in there but i find that with my LE stock it just slides out. My UBR its a bit of a tight fight and I have to use a hooked coathanger to pull it out. Just wondering if this is common.
So cut off the rubber and save it. If you want to go back to your original stock then just put the small piece in first, big piece in second, spring in third.......

Q - how far to seat the stock tube into the receiver
A - Turn until the buffer tube stops at the retainer pin (the small pin on the spring, which is vertical), then back it off until the buffer is aligned, and then tighten the nut


Handguards (threading primarily)
WE threading is "real threading"...i.e. G&P/PTW compatible and "the other" type when compared to TM compatible AEGs. However...the WE threads are inconsistent receiver to receiver. On some they are not very far off from being "TM compatible"...where all that is required is to take the finish. On others more material must be removed. A receiver threading tool such as the Madbull Delta Ring tool is handy...but a thread file can also be used. A "regular" fine triangular file can be used to...but you must take care to chase the threads evenly. If you're doing the work with a file...go slow and check often.
- SOCOM/Madbull handguards - MK18 fits
The threads were slightly off but not in a way to damage either the upper or RIS retainer nut (it was sloppy if anything). Just pay extra attention when you are threading it on to avoid cross threading it. You may also consider putting a couple rounds of teflon tape on the upper to take out the initial play in the threads.
- I used a PTW delta ring/nut on my WE M4 and it fit just fine

Launchers
In general...no compatibility issues
- Madbull X-series (will fit...move forward so recoil with support hand does not trigger accidentally)
- G&P 203 will fit

Anti-Rotation Pins
One of the "pins" that is captured by the AntiRotational pin sets is "fake" on the WE...so they don't really do what they would on a real rifle or WA style setup
- The anti rotational pins don't really do anything in airsoft except making your gun look more "cool". There is one advantage though, if you take your gun apart a lot, the anti rotational pins help with reducing wear on your lower where the stock pin fits.

Maintenance Summary
 

Maintenance Summary

****the folllowing information is not solely my own...it comes from consolidating numerous posts throughout this thread****

In general most maintenance comes from Inspection and Cleaning/Lubrication. You must inspect for wear & tear on contact points. You must lubricate the magazines and working internals of the rifle. This is not a "fire and forget" system.

Look for broken parts, loose fit, excessing wear/cracking on all parts. Once you get a handle on where to look it doesn't take long to give it a once over before and after use.
Inspect:
- screws should be snug
- pins should be snug and set in far enough
- contact surfaces for scoring, marring, cracks
- nozzle for bent/crushed stanchions
- o-rings for nicks/tears
- inner barrel for jams/scratches/etc...


Lubricate:
- gas in mags...use 3-5 drops of thicker silicone oil in each mag and fill with propane. This will keep the mags sealed for storage.
- o-rings...use either thicker silicone oil or very light rubber friendly grease
- bearing/rolling surfaces...use light grease
- The criteria are:
- won't dry out
- will stay where placed
- won't slow down the action unnecessarily
- if it's contacting rubber...it's got to be safe for it (no petroleum products or products with a petroleum carrier)

There's an enormous amount of gas going through the system...and it'll dry out the o-ring seals quickly. They'll dry, get sticky/tacky and that'll slow things up.




Bolt Catch
- locking too frequently - stretch the bolt catch spring
- Not sure it has already been posted here or if you have already tried this, but there is a mod posted on Arnies about adding a regular AEG shim behind the bolt catch which supposely makes it run flawlessly and catch most of the time as the bolt catch stays straight when the bolt catch plate pushes it up and it catches the bolt with a larger surface than before.

Add shim between the bolt catch and the receiver.
http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/s...ldcatchmod.jpg
- With no bb's in the magazine, you should have a little notch raised from the magazines, and with BB's loaded, the notch will lower. There is a switch on the topside of the magazine which enables and disables the lockback feature on each magazine.

Sealing Gas Mags
- gasket seal
- lube
- grease
- while we are on the subject of mags, iv been messing with mine trying to get rid of leaks. lithium grease is working great for me, got 2 mags up and running yesterday that would not hold gas before, but i noticed something. it seems like the ability of a mag to hold gas is closely related to the match between the mag body and the back plate. i would grease up the seal, install the backplate and get everything locked down- and the mag would leak, usually at the top or bottom. re-try with a different back plate, same seal and body, and get a perfect seal- no leaks at all. i should also note that all my mags have over-fill type valves on them, so no leaks is pretty impressive i think. to figure out if the back plate is a good match for a shell, put it on the back with no rubber seal in between. the top and bottom edges should sit really flush with the mag body, like right in there. most of the big leaks on my mags were coming from the top and/or bottom of the back plate so i think this is a key area for leakage.
as a side note, has anyone tried re-threading the female threads in the magazine? im talking about the ones that hold the back plate on. i stripped one while tightening the back plate screws damn zinc

i recently received a replacement part #59 (knocker cover) from renegadecow on arnies. it is a home made knocker cover made from steel. its really nice and dropped in perfectly. it doesnt have the sharp internal corners that the stock part has (just a hole for the knocker nub to poke through) so i dont see it breaking any time soon. if anyone needs a new #59 i would highly recommend this part. only cost $15 shipped from the Philippines. i can post up pics if anyone is curious.


Lubricating (Mags)
- three drops of Grenade oil or 5 drops of gbb oil in each mag each
- Also I'm finding I'm having to lube the bolt/valve a lot as after a couple (5-10) mags the valve won't slide smoothly anymore. Is this normal?

Lubricating (other)
- reason why I like the new ultra slick multipurpose grease is because you can lay on a really thin layer and it's effective for a long time. won't dry up or become gummy. a thicker layer in areas you want more works too because it'll stay put and doesn't get flung off with every shot.

I think it was Renegade) that told me the Ultra Slick is now what use to be Super Lube or it's a suitable alternative

Hopup
- Does anyone know if the Stinger Hop Up for the M4 series will work for the PDW?

Edit: msged RA-Tech, and they said that it's compatible.

Cleaning
- Shelledpants is full of WIN with this awesome pictoral cleaning guide
Hey gang,

I just posted up a cleaning guide. Please inform me of any corrections.

http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...50#post1234750

- clean the sh*t out of the upper receiver, including the track the charging handle rides in, and the inner wall of the bolt. had the same problem when i replaced the charging handle. i mean go to town, brushes and stuff. it cant be too clean. then re-assemble and re-lube.

Jams
- The "Jamming" can also be caused by the swelling of the large O-ring on the black plastic nozzle assembly guide. I have solved this by pretty much working it in and racking the rifle about 300 times.

O-rings
- (this where to get it is worth posting up....thanks!)
I found a local source for the nozzle o-ring (part #45). I personally haven't one fail but I like to keep extras handy just in case!!! The only snag is they require a minimum purchase of $25.00. I just bought a metric o-ring set which included 20 of them as well 29 other sizes for $23.00

http://www.globalrubber.com/

The o-ring size is 7mm ID with a cross section of 1.5mm (7mm x 1.5mm)

Buffer Stop
- I would take a look at parts 123,124,and 125 (these parts make up the assembly retaining all the parts in the buffer tube when gun is open) to see if they set at the right height. I had these parts back out a bit causing all kinds of grief!!! These parts ride in the groove in lower half of the bolt. If not set correctly they effectively pinch the bolt between the upper and buffer tube. It maybe the issue since you just swapped out the lower.

Check to see if there is some wear on the pin(125) and the groove on the underside of the bolt.
- i take the buffer retainer out with a pair of scissors. yes, scissors. just spread the blades apart enough so the points fit in the slots on the top of the retainer. then turn like a normal screw!

Must Do's
 

Must Do's - Functional

***the following info is not solely my own....it is a consolidation of the numerous posts in this thread***

There are just a few MUST DO things with these rifles for reliable function.
1. Loctite (blue/temporary) everything you don't want shaken off of it.
2. Part #66 must be replaced with a steel unit (CNC or wire cut)
3. On older models the Forward Assist button must be epoxy/super glued on or it'll shake loose and pop right off
4. Lubricate
5. Regular inspection


Steel Internals
- hammer/sear/etc...

Replacement Internals
- Part #66
just becareful when tearing down and reasembling the trigger pack the spring for part 66 (PART67) likes to shoot in random directions and get lost

Plastic-to-metal lower receiver swap
- I had a similar body issue with mine. I had to file the holes to get them to accept the pins for both the front and rear pins. The only issue I have (which is small and not a problem for me) is that I need to partially rack the bolt to get the rear of the upper to mate properly with the lower. As soon as this happens it's smooth sailing again, as the pin goes straight in without an issue.
- Ok, so after filing away for about 30 minutes with a round bastard file (carefully, but still making progress), I got the fitment down. Now it's about as rattle-y as I recall Chris and Rub's being.

The issue with non-firing, was an unrelated one, the white spacer on my bolt had moved forward -somehow- over the last month or two of non-use. Put it back in place and the gun fires a treat.

ULTIMATELY what I did, was file the front pin on the upper down slightly the allow play between the receivers, and then filed the rear to allow alignment of the pin.
- I had to ream out the tab and burnish it .. now it fits but is tight.. and has to be tapped in and out ( but is getting looser with use) I have had zero function issues thankfully


SCAR Specific
- The fix I performed earlier managed to work for a few weeks and then I noticed the roller pin coming lose again. Tried further deforming the end of the pin with grooves on it in an attempt to get it to stop coming loose still when in place. This lasted another couple games until about 3/4 of the way through the FR Night game on July 3rd where at one point the gun jammed on me. After opening it up noticed the roller pin had once again found it's way down beneath the fire selector.

Fixed the problem this time by removing the trigger assembly and replacing the hammer/roller/roller pin combination with new parts. So far things seem to be solid.
- After deforming the end of the pin a little so it stays in the hammer assembly better I reinserted it. Reassembled and gun is shooting just fine again.

I made sure to not sit there and try firing my gun repeatedly while it was in this 'broken' condition. Thereby hopefully avoiding any unnecssary wear on any other parts. Just to play it safe though I ordered some extra internal bits and a replacement set for parts #50, #51 and #52 so when the time comes I can rebuild this thing.

Forward Assist Button (older versions)
- So, I use epox and glue the forward assist button, the forward assist body and the first 2 coil of the spring altogether and custom cut the spring a bit. It's working so far.


I'm interested to see how's that retaining screw and the bolt finished look like. Maybe I ask Lanny to show me next time.
- I cross drilled mine and put in a pin

Trouble Shooting
 

Throuble Shooting

While there are plenty of posts relating to issues with the WE systems...in general they can be traced back to a small number of root causes. The good news is that there are resolutions for these issues.

Most jamming, venting, sticky operation issues can be traced back to inadequate lubrication. There are mechanical bearing parts...there are gas sealing contact points....they must remain lubricated.

When the "new" hopup (black vs. original green) came out there were quite a few reports of way too much hopup being applied...and some torn ones. The root issue is that the nub of the rubber stuck down too far into the barrel even at the lowest settings. You can either mod the hopup rubber to apply less hopup....or you can try other hopup rubbers (i.e. original green, Stinger)




Valve Freezing and Gas Venting
- NPAS valve freezing open

Too Much Hopup
- I Reccently gammed the M4 and noticed my hop up is realy finicky. If I move it a small turn the hop up is so strong its holding my nozzle in place and when I let it off I get shots flying left and right. I was using .25 bb basterds while shooting, my stock barrel/set up is the new Gen.2 hop-up system with 6.03mm inner barrel. I am also NOT comfortable perfoming the hop up mod myself as I dont trust myself to not srew it up
- I replaced both of my WETTI M4 uppers hop ups with the Stinger hop up. If you don't want to go this route you can take the hop up rubber off and trim down the integrated "nub" so that the adjustments are a little more tame.
- I'm not sure if it's me or what but twice now I've had my SCAR where after firing for some time the BB's start skyrocketing (too much hopup) so I turn my hopup off and they either continue to shoot at planes or it's like throwing a wiener down a hall in terms of accuracy. After a while of this bb's then get constantly jammed in the barrel. When I take it appart I find the hop up has ripped (now theres a flap). This is the second time this has happened. Are there any better hop ups for the SCAR out there.

Too Little Hopup


Safe/Semi/FullAuto Operation
- But one thing that is bothering me.. it there something wrong in the trigger box if I can move the selector switch from semi to safe when the hammer is uncocked? Is a problem with the sear? I only did it a couple of times to figure it out why but couldn't.
- Not sure if i'm crazy or something but is it strange to put the selector switch on safety when the charging handle is not pulled?
- The m4 has to be in Semi or Safe if your mating the upper and the lower. It can not be in Auto.
- Like the RS version you can not put it on safe unless the weapon is cocked.

Internal Modifications

NOTE: This is not solely my own information...it is a compilation of info from previous posts in this thread.

This section is about mods to the internal parts...either to improve durability, tweak performance or modify whatever. I'm not sure that anything in this section is simply a "lego-esque" snap in part and you're done. You've got to understand a bit of what's going on and check your specfic setup.

Adjustable FPS
The following items are ways to alter the nozzle setup to affect the FPS of the rifle. These mods are independant of simply switching gases...which will also affect the FPS of the rifle. Note...the adjustments with most of these to go from 400fps to 350fps are very, very fine...so use a chrony to confirm you FPS before hitting a game.

NPAS
Put simply...refer to RATech's NPAS system. The NP part refers to Negative Pressure...this is different from the WA system that works on a Positive Pressure system. If you want to understand how it works...check out Redwolf's site, they have a great pictoral explanation of "how a GBB works". They describe the action of pistols...but it's the same thing for these GBBRs.
* by far the most popular adjustment system
* works by setting the position of the float valve further forward or back in the nozzle body...further back = more velocity...further forward = less velocity
* well built...machined edges can be very sharp, there's no harm in breaking the edges very slightly (that roughly means take a file and ever so slightly hit all the right angles of the cut outs)
* simple system...sound design
* need adjustment tool...it's a very small allen head grub screw stuck in an L-shaped bar...you can definitely make your own, but until you do..don't lose it.
* need to remove the bolt assembly from the upper receiver to adjust...but that's not too hard
* generally stays adjusted where you set it...but a tiny/little bit of temporary loctite doesn't hurt
* does not come loctite'd together...which is good. But you MUST use temporary loctite for final assembly or else it'll come apart with use.

TCS
TCS was first to market with a consumer add on product that was reported to adjust the FPS. It consisted of a new piston body (usually blue anodized alum), a sqare sectioned threaded rod and a threaded collar to set the position of the nozzle (thus the FPS).
Good theory...didn't work well in practice due to either poor manufacturing, tolerances, or design. The main issue with some of them was that the grub screw in the threaded collar was so small and had so few threads holding it that it could not take many readjustments before it "wore out". Also...it was still necessary to loctite everything in place....so the "quick adjustments" of the system were no quicker than anything else.
* looks nice
* "fragile"/not durable

Mod the float valve
Ways of modding the stock nozzle assembly were the first "home brew" methods of adjusting the FPS. With any Red Green "fixes" like these...the devils in the details and execution. Here's a couple of ways to do it....some are dead simple...others take a bit of work.
1. Insert a spacer behind the float valve. Guys tried using a 6mm solid bushing (CA ones for whatever reason)...slipping it over the guide rod stub that sticks into the nozzle body. This would in essence push the float valve forward "permanently" to reduce the velocity. Some guys would try to epoxy or superglue it in place. The obvious issue with this mod is that it's a fixed setting and it can break loose.
2. Find a nut that fit the threaded portion of the rod that stuck into the nozzle body and use that to essentially have the same effect as the bushing mod above. Loctite or super glue in place. This was more secure...dependant on finding a propper fit...could come loose...fixed setup dependant on the thickness of the nut you find (or you could trial and error grind it)
3. Make a "nut" to fit the threaded rod. I machined mine out of brass and make the threads "tight" so that it'd stay in place. No issues with it coming off...but it's really a guestimate trial and error to get the FPS where you want it. Add in temp variables and it's basically like throwing darts in the dark.
4. "TSC Variation"....thread the stock rod more so it can run up further into the nozzle body (less FPS) or be backed out (more FPS). Place a nut on the threaded rod to jam the nozzle body in place where you set it. Still need to loctite it. Resulted in a fidgety setup that was mechanically more durable than the TCS version....but was still subject to it coming apart with heavy use.
5. "Make your own NPAS valve"...essentially put a screw into the stock float valve. It's simple to tap and thread a hole in the center of the stock float valve. It's also simple to use an appropriate machine screw....grind on a male hex pattern on the end, grind the head down flat to make a plate. It's a bit hard to find the small allen head grub screws....but if you can and have access to a lathe it's pretty simple to knock up an adjustment key. It works...it's solid...you've got to be attentive in making it. I made a couple....I'd rather buy the RAtech one :)
6. "Make your own float valve"...I machined several out of brass. Different sized inlet holes...different sized bore holes. It works...very easy on a lathe. It's very much a guessing game to get the FPS result you want. Non adjustable...unless you mod it further.
7. "Make your own complete nozzle assembly"....:) soon...soon

Nozzle Buffer
Behind the nozzle body, on the rod, sits a small white plastic collar. This collar is ESSENTIAL to the operation of the rifle since it determines the "in battery" position of the nozzle (like headspace in a real centerfire chamber). If it's not there, smushed, crushed...your nozzle will not seal completely and you get failure to function.
I've crushed some nozzles...and I think more than a couple others have too. I think that if you get some jams and you keep pounding away at it (e.g. jamming during a full auto string) that the nozzle basically stops at the plugged up section of the chamber and there's nothing stopping the big heavy bolt carrier from slamming forward...and the stanchions of the nozzle body take the worst of the impact.
So I used some dense rubber material that had just a bit of give to it and cut out a disk to go over the rod in place of the plastic spacer. The thickness is just a bit over the length of plastic spacer....so when the bolt carrier comes into battery it compresses the rubber to keep the nozzle sealed. I haven't had many jams...but I'm hoping when I do the rubber will take up at least some of the shock to the nozzle body and save it from crushing (at least if I switch on my brain and stop shooting after a jam).
The first one I made was a bit crude since I cut it out with a hobby knife...I figured I'd make a nicer one if this one wore out. It's still going strong....so I haven't made another. I figure that a sharp hollow punch sized to the same size as the nozzle base is the way to go.

Changing out nozzles/rod assemblies (Hints and tips)
- loctite and breaking loctite
-

Stop the centering collar from sliding around
- i can easily put my m4 selector to safe, uncocked. no firing issues related to same.
however, i did have a firing issue which was resolved. 'twas due to the plastic block
in the bolt that has moved forward a bit that interfered with the hammer. causing the
pin to hit the mag valve half press and bolt didn't reseat. try moving that plastic back all the way to the back. some even removed this. also, both receivers can be put back together with hammer cocked/uncocked. hope this helps.
- crazy glue
- pin it



Well I got everything working smoothly. I replaced the O-rings on the Valve.. Some silicon oil, and everything works nice now.. But on the other hand.. How much play should the Bolt carrier have side to side in the upper? I am beginning to get the pesky AR rattle from.. The bolt it seems.. Anyone else seem to be getting said problem?


Inner Barrels
- rubbers and inner barrels for the WETTI M4 Gen 3 are they the same as AEG or GBBR Specific?

Breakdowns/Failure Summary Reports

NOTE: The following info is not solely my own...it is a compilation of info from other previous posts to this thread.

- First day out with my brand new WE 416. 3 mags through it on semi auto and the metal lower receiver has a big crack right across the top near the buffer tube. That and it now jams every shot.
I plinked a couple mags through it at home after it got out of the box and it was fine.

- Hey guys,

Not to sure if someone have a problem with the bomber light bolt carrier for the Scar.
I tend to clean the gun every match and sooo I took 5 shot and this happen.

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/3484/img0367qg.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

What Gas To Use
 

What Gas to Use

Propane vs. "duster" vs. CO2

NOTE: The following info is not solely my own...it's a compilation of the info from various previous posts

In general, the WE platform was designed to run on green gas (i.e. propane). Calls from the public asked for a harder recoiling system...so they built a CO2 mag and made some changes to the nozzle design (i.e. the flanged vs. the bottle neck design). Other than that there aren't any material differences between any of the pre-CO2 and CO2-ready models. That said...the faster/harder recoil speeds of C02 really put a beating on the rifles. Most notably the SCAR's design of a very heavy bolt with plastic parts cannot take sustained wear and tear on CO2.

Out of the box velocities are all over the place...from lows of 340fps on propane to highs of 590fps. It's dependant on the position of the float valve. So you MUST chrony yours to see what it's shooting.

Duster gas will drop the velocities but it's not a guarantee that it'll reliably cycle your rifle...nor does it lubricate anything.

In general...the concensus is to use the gas that results in the most consistent operation....and use an adjustable nozzle system to tune the velocity.



- M4 A1, 363 tightbarrel, Using Xcortech chrono, goldenball BBs, 1st shoot is =520, 2nd =545, 3nd = 575, 4th = 671.9?? Can this happened ? but then back to 520 - 545 fps...I'm using 195psi gas ( guarder black is 150psi )...

- I was using a CO2 magazine and it's firing at 530fps with .2g which seems to be 2 fast to get the bolt catch to catch. The propane mags firing at 430fps with .2g are catching. Guess I'll just have to wait for the npas valve

- The NPAS is the way to reduce the FPS. Also if your Scar has a Steel Nozzle it's rated for C02 if it's brass then it is not.

re: my freezing.

Took my mags, emptied gas. Held open the valve and sprayed some 'liquid wrench' silicone spray into them (a good amount). Let sit a few min then filled some propane into the magazine. Heard a bubbling sound as it mixed with the oil.

Letting it sit overnight and will hopefully try it tomorrow.

Need some help.

So I ordered RA TECH WE firing pin base+Valve knocker for the Scar and it seem it doesn't work at all. It seem the WE stock hammer is not catching the valve locker.

So far the gun wouldn't shoot with the mag.
All I can tell after install everything back with the ra-tech parts. The knocker would not pull back and only if I push the hammer down further then it will.


Any ideas to fix?

Cheers,
fumoffu

Not sure what the "valve locker" is...but I'm guessing it's what's called part #66 in an M4 (the part isn't actually numbered in the SCAR).

Also, a detailed description on what/how your rifle is acting is helpful.

How to test that the knocker is working.

1. Remove the magazine
2. Separate the upper from the lower
3. Cock the hammer manually (the knocker should retract from the area in the magwell)
4. Make sure the selector is in semi
5. Pull the trigger, the knocker should be knocked forward
6. Cock the hammer slowly...you should see the knocker retract at a given point when the hammer is moving back.

If it's not doing that, you've got to check that part #66 is installed correctly and that the spring is in place. The legs of the part must ride on the hammer and ride underneath the knocker.

The knocker must have it's spring installed under it..and the tiny little peg that goes in the spring.

The parts should move freely...and not be a tight fit at all. With some of the machined aftermarket parts, you might have to round edges, file, etc...to get it to fit your particular trigger/hammer housing.

You can test all this with the whole trigger unit out of the lower...but becareful that the little spring for part #66 doesn't fly off (piece of tape over it will hold it in position temporarily or just keep your thumb over it).

***NOTE***
In an effort to tidy this thread up I'm going to ask a mod to delete a number of old posts in this thread. Mostly...
- repetitive questions
- back and forth info
- buy and sell stuff
- other items that are covered somewhere else in the thread or that can be consolidated together

* I am reading each and every thread that I'm submitting to be deleted
* I am doing my best to review, interpret and consolidate the info in a post before I submit it
* I will remain impartial...so even info from "dubious" sources is getting a fair chance
* If your post is deleted, please don't take it as a personal affront...this clean up is meant to make all the info more accessible to anyone who reads through this thread.

** if you feel that I've made an error and missed something...by all means speak up.

Please and thanks,

Tys

Update:
NPAS still freezing after 1.5-2 mags, attempted inside.
Have removed bolt and oiled it well, letting it sit out for a bit. Oiled trigger group and valve knocker.

Mags are not locking back as well, may be BAD Lever related. Will remove and see if that's an easy fix.

Co2 Durability testing
 

Alright guys I have made it to page 17 of this and have seen this requested a few times.

I am running the latest gen scar with a Npas nozzle and all co2 mags.

One big worry seems to be the hinge plate. I have had about 30 mags through mine so far and some dry firing. The hinge plate has some scuffing from where the return spring sits on it how ever I have had no cracking. But I think I know why.

While trying to get my bolt catch working *still not working right* I ended up cutting the spring to try and slow down the bolt return. This how every made the gun not cycle right. Sooo I cut a few coils off another spring and added them back onto the guide rod. Infact it has strengthened the return spring and I believe this is what is keeping my plate alive. The fact that the return spring actually sits against the plate compressed just slightly, not allowing it to have a jack hammer effect.

Now other than the bolt catch not working 100% I have had no other issues with the co2 mags. They do leak out of the knocker valve once in a while but a silicone oil bath does solve that.

Draw back to them is you get about a mag and a half out of the powerlett. so either your stuck loading 15-20 rounds for the second go or your throwing away still charge powerletts. On field I load them and fire until dry, off field before game I just throw fresh ones in.

As for oiling the mags the best way I have found is to put a few drops in the expansion chambers *the ports just below the valve* putting oil on the top of the powerlett and screwing it in is not sufficient and causing the mag to leak eventually.

the FPS with my stock valve on co2 was roughly 560fps. I brought that down with the Npas to about 410 *our field limit is 430*. This seems to be a sweet spot for the hop up. Anything slower I was getting horriable dive. Faster I was getting no hop effect and very random shots.


As for cool down on the co2 mags I can get roughly a full mag out in a string how ever I never actually do that on the field... its fine for 3-5 round bursts and bouts of cover fire. I have used them in 17c with absolutely no issues reported. Also as hot as 35c. Mag was to hot to even touch and the fps did jump a bit on the first shot but the rest was nice and steady.

Any other q's about the co2 set up let me know. I have an idea on how to get the bolt catch to work, Just need to get around to it.

Edit: just a tip with the co2 mags they do like to lose the clear oring that the powerlett bumps up against. if this happens go to a paintball store. They usually have tons of orings in stock and should be able to get you up and running again. Also DO NOT SWING THE MAG to get the powerlett out. That is a good way to have the oring go flying with it.

I've deleted about 200 posts so far and will keep going...

That's great feedback on the CO2 front...thank you!

I know a couple of guys who have gone completely over to gas guns and are now looking at CO2 mags for the fall/cooler season.

Removed BAD Lever, bolt now locks back on empty mag.

NPAS still freezing. Now pissed off. Any ideas guys?

Sorry Sam...over-eager on purging posts...:(

Quick summary setup?
- SCAR/M4/PDW
- CO2 or propane
- RAtech's NPAS?
- other mods?

Are you in for Oct 3 FR?

Tys

After reading through all the information on the WE GBBR's, and observing some on the field, these GBBR's seem to need a huge amount of maintenance to game successfully. Now I know the GBBR's are suppose to be more 'realistic' but isn't all this extra work to keep the WE's shooting a big pain?

its a labour of love, like owning a wood boat or an old car. They are simple things to work on. But don't under take it if you just want to go play. Honestly though I have had less probs with my WE scar than my VSR.

I have a TMak47 as a back up and it comes out to every game. I would never buy a GBBR with out owning a AEG.

have you worked on an AEG? Minimal mait required on a GBBR compared to AEG's. AEG's can be a great workhorse but once you get into eletrical trouble..it can be a nightmare. I love the simplicity of a GBBR. Once you take it down, you completely understand the internal workings, where as with an AEG...its all messed haha

That is a very good observation and fair question.

[*edit* quality working reliable] AEGs are very much..."slap a battery in, fill mags with BBs and you're good to go"...pack it away right after a game...take it out last minute before another...add battery/bbs and go.

GBBRs are not so much. They are essentially a big gas blow back pistol....cycling heavy parts with lots of gas.

For maintenance...they're like a cross between a real rifle and a gas pistol.

Maintenance free...absolutely not. But the maintenance is very straightforward and centered around checking it over and lubing up the gas/moving parts.

Once you've got the lubing figured out...there's not a whole lot to do.

For example...this is ALL I do:
Pregame
- gas/oil mags - load BBs
- run a cleaning rod down the barrel
- tune NPAS to field limits

In Game
- gas/oil mags + BBs

Post game
- wipe down rile (there's rusty steel bits on mine and it always seems to rain)
- gas/oil mags
- once over...looking for torn o-rings/cracks/breaks/loose stuff (i.e. my flashhider almost shook off the last game)
.....takes about 30 min to clean it up and pack it away

So...in the end it's less maintenance than a real rifle (i.e. cleaning/lubing)....but certainly more than an AEG.

Shoot an AEG for a while....then shoot a nicely working GBBR....:) it'll ruin you and a lot of guys won't go back.

I agree with that lol. Going to an aeg from my gbbr.... I pulled the trigger and went "really? That's it?"

WE CQBR
Propane
RATECH NPAS +part 66 and one other.
Genuine Magpul ASAP + BAD Lever (removed as it was disabling bolt catch)

Yes I will be there, im on tan :P

Thats because Leecas is always there ;)

I received my ratech kit. I have already installed the npas (didn't forget to put blue locktit)
Do i install part 66 and the other metal part or i wait until failure?

Other question... How do i install the new hopup? (and all its parts). my hopup is the one with the ball bearing.

I will run my we with propane.

I had it done all at once since the gun was apart. No harm in that.

steel part 66 will damage a stock hammer just FYI

I have...and know several others who have...replaced that part and not worn out their hammers. Some of them have shot little...some a lot.

I get that a steel part rubbing against a different metal will wear it...but can you qualify/quantify your statement?

Sam,

Swap out the knocker (the other part) back to stock...leave in the NPAS valve and steel part #66.

1. make sure there aren't any burrs or catches on part 66...not to round off the edges or anything severe...but check to see it's not catching/digging into the hammer as it moves. It should also move completely smoothly up and down in it's slot.

2. Pull your bolt carrier out and put some thicker silicone oil (try either grenade oil or 60wt RC shock oil).
- put a generous dab on the 2 orings on the nozzle body
- put a little on the o-ring of the float valve..it must move back and forth freely.
(see edit)
- extend the shaft/rod and put some oil on the piston cup and on the spot where the rod goes into the piston head. Work the rod back and forth...it shouldn't bind/catch....it should be smooth.
- if it's still not moving smoothly...you might have to take the piston out of the bolt carrier and see if the end of the rod isn't too big for the black piston body. Lube there too.
- lube the top roller on the bolt carrier
- make sure you've got a bit of grease on your buffer spring and just a touch on the buffer where it'll rub the stock pipe...it should run in and out smoothly.

3. make sure the white spacer is all the way back (to the rear) on the piston body.

4. back the float valve almost all the way back (most FPS)...it'll shoot too hot but we're just testing now.

5. with an empty mag...
- hold down the knocker valve and put 2-3 drops of oil (same as above) right in the top seal of the mag. The knocker valve must move freely...so a little light lube there if you need it.
- at the bottom of the mag....put 2 drops on the fill valve...give it a quick shot of gas...put 2 more drops on the fill valve and then gas the mag up

....it'll be overlubed at this point...but ok for testing.

Rack the bolt...the bolt should be smooth and not stuck/sticky anywhere. Work it a bit to see that it's all free moving.

Fire (bbs or not) on semi...count 1 mississippi between shots for now. How many shots do you get off a full mag?

If it's working decently at this point...tune down the float valve to a sane velocity level....keep oiling the mags and test firing. If it's still consistent at this point...then start reducing the amount of oil in the mags. Pull the bolt now and then...it should have a nice even coating of lube pretty much everywhere. The lower internals should be lubed too.

If you get to the point where you think it's stable and the oil levels are just enough to keep it lubed...then you should be good to chrony. Remember to pass a AEG cleaning rod down the barrel to get extra oil out.

Other guys have noted that it often takes a fair bit of bolt racking to set the o-rings to the chamber so it doesn't hang up there.

******EDITS*******
- corrected masses of spelling mistakes...need more coffee :)
- * I also noticed the other day that the newest batch of RA tech springs were really stiff in comparison to the old ones

This increased resistance makes for the float valve slower/delayed in closing.

If you crap out on all of this, try swapping the stock float valve spring in to use with the RATech valve....you'll need to clip the little cross piece leg out of the spring...compare to the RAtech one and it'll be evident what to do.

Well it would seem I have discovered something new with the co2 mags. If your going to store them with a powerlet in... do not leave them on there side. The liquid co2 seems to flow into the valve and cause it to leak. I just had 2 randomly start leaking on me.

Makes me wonder if co2 is better stored with out the powerlet. The one sealed up again after a few shots the other one refuses to seal.

Edit: ok I found a solution to make the mags stop leaking. Seen as the seal on the co2 mags doesn't seem to be rubber so its not reacting to silicone like normal. I found that by stretching the cone spring out a bit it puts more pressure on the valve and seals it up.

On a side note can someone pull a GG valve to compare?

I've got a junker WE mag...won't get a chance to pull it apart until next week though

K, i've been working on fixing a buddy's 416... I've narrowed the problem down to the white spacer, its sitting in the middle of the bolt assembly. Now...

HOW THE HELL does this thing move? I've tried pulling it back with a lot of force, thing doesn't budge. How much force was required, or how much time did it take for you guys to move it back?

Lots...sometimes. It's a "stick-tion" fit. Surprising that something on so tight can actually move...but those are the forces these rifles move around with.

The exterior condition of it does not matter at all...so gripping it with big adjustable pliers doesn't matter.

I found that I could really move tight ones by twisting it as I move it...a little thin/light lube helps (clean it off after though).

Or...take the piston out of the carrier...brace the back of the piston body (black tube) on something softish (shop towel on a bench), use a monkey wrench to put on the top of the plastic spacer but not gripping the tube at all and then use a light touch with a hammer to nudge it down bit by bit.

Get it clean, dry...free of oils. The spacer and the tube. Then use a touch of saliva or water to lube it just a bit and put the spacer back on. Note that it usually goes on just a bit ahead of the actual base of the piston body when it's all snugged up in the bolt carrier. just before you get it into final position...use a drop or three of crazy glue (cyanoacrylic) to fix it in place. Super glue needs water to activate (thus the water/saliva)...depending on the setup time of the glue you can try to apply it so that you get as much as possible between the tube and the spacer to hold it in place. I think that Red/perm loctite would do it to...but if I used that I'd coat it well before putting it on...loctite sets up in the absence of air. Let sit to fully cure before shooting it.

OR

tap the side of the spacer when it's in position and pin it in place with a small set/grub screw. The screw can't/won't back out if you position it so it's trapped by the bolt carrier when the piston assembly is screwed back into the bolt carrier. (hope that makes sense). I did that to mine and it hasn't moved since. Won't be a mess to take apart if I have to like gluing would be.

Tys

Thanks Tys.

Just another note before I attempt any of the remedies, when I rack the gun, sometimes the bolt 'sticks' half way and I have to really yank on it. Once the hammer is cocked though it is fine and i can do it easily after that. It seems to happen once and a while only.

This is on a scar? because my scar does that too. It narrowed it down to either the Orings are getting "pinched" or its the BCG on the hammer just coming to an odd point. If I rack it quickly it never really has an issue.

Mine is an M4

does it only happen when you use the bolt catch, or when you let the bolt carrier snap forward? my bolt does the same thing (like its getting stuck half way back) like, its still easy to rack, but its weird.

Got the Madbull fill valves for my mags. It seems the "faces" or tops of the fill valves are bigger then the originals. Do I drill out the beginning of the hole to make it bigger, or make the circumference of the fill valves face smaller with the dremel?

Cab, I didn't do anything to mine....just made sure the o-ring was there and screwed it in tight.

Hmm... Well I put the fill valve in, and it does work properly. The main reason why I was asking was because I was a little worried about the pressure popping the valve out if it doesn't catch all the threads. Also Im not able to put the mag plate back on with the new fill valve.. It sticks out about 3-4mm's.

Maybe the specs changed a bit. Mine sat higher too...but the plates went on.

That could very well be. Well after work Ill probably get to fiddling around with the dang thing. That and trying to get the barrel nut to stop undoing itself! That is the thing that is driving me nuts..

I picked up a "Socom Gear" DD Mk18 RIS, and when I fitted it I had two problems.

A: The O-ring around the barrel kept getting chewed up by the barrel nut and having to be replaced.

B: After fitting it, and after a couple mags the barrel nut would loosen up enough to make the outer barrel move very much freely..

Oh, and trust me.. I have tried thread lock..

Ditch the o-ring Cab.

There's some adjustment points but yeah, the vibrations on these things are a biatch.

I'll document something for you the next time I have my rifle apart.

Tys

Hey Tys,

Sounds good. Its been awhile.. Hope everything is good on your side!

I was going to ditch the o-ring but I cant screw the barrel nut on all the way w/o the o-ring because it will only go on so far and still allow the barrel to move around.. I heard about the thread modifications but I'm still a little unsure about it.. How do I remove the threads?

Dremel with a cutting wheel?

Caboose

This will help me to because i just ordered one (s-g dd mk18 ris)

I had the same issues with mine. For the o-ring I used a fair amount of silicone grease to keep it from binding/tearing. In respect to the barrel nut you might want to consider using a couple rounds of teflon tape to remove the excess play.

hi , i am planning to build a sniper rifle wannabe based on WE HK 416.
here's my question :

1. is it funny that i used a 505/455mm inner barrel ? 'coz the origin of hk 416 used 363mm inner barrel . will it suitable

2. can i install the magpul PRS for gbb into my WE HK416 ? ( it says it suitable for gbb WA type )

3. what else parts/acc to make my dream come true ??

4. thanks for the help i'm really appreciated

5. sorry for my bad english

1. There shouldn't be an issue with a longer barrel (providing you can find a suitable one that works with the WE hopup)...the gas system will continue to dump gas down the barrel until the BB is out. Expect very high velocities...

2. I can't recall the buffer tube spec on a WA...but the WE buffer tube is mil-spec sized...so anything that is built for that will work. The measurements might be in this thread...or else there are some other threads in ASC with the dimensions listed.

3. dunno...if you're copying something real...go with those parts. If you're just making it up...make it up. Suppressors don't reall do much on the GBBRs...that'll be more for looks. I've always wanted to try the type of bipod where one leg clamps on either side of the RIS...I'd probably do that.

yup i 'm going to install with RA-Teach Stinger hop up replacing the crappy we hop up. and if i install the 505/455mm inner barrel should i replace the original outer barrel too ? will it still fit ? or should i build from 3rd party external parts ?

and finally anyone use the ra-tech NPAS kit ? should i change the bolt carrier too ? or just with the original WE bolt carrier ?

Don't know the specifics of the inner dimensions of the outer barrel on the 416. If there isn't a lip near the end of the other barrel that prevents the inner barrel from passing right out the end of it...then aside from the cosmetics of hiding that extra inner barrel length there's really no issue. You should check that the inner barrel is centered in the outer barrell....but that goes for any length.

Lots of people use the RATech NPAS...it works very nicely (see previous posts). I don't understand...why would you change the bolt carrier? Do you perhaps mean replacing the stock WE piston body with the RATech machined one? If so...it's easiest to replace the entire unit...but you don't have to...lots of guys use the RATech nozzle with the rest of the stock parts.

i think u've bring me some enlightment , thanks a lot.
i ask again later , now i'm still waiting for my NPAS kit upgrades. so it means there's no more problem with the original WE bolt carrier.
hoping the Magpul PRS suitable for my HK , if not it'll be a waste since i already ordered it :(

inokatsu
 

anyone know how to get a inokatsu in bc canada??

Yup. Lots of us do. But this is not the place to ask that. The place is in the wanted section. No one will help you any further than this. That is if your not already on a break for out right breaking the rules. Post reported.

Just wondering, is it possible to use the red gasket goop from Canadian tire instead of the blue for sealing leaky mags?

Well it appears that my hingeplate has finally started to crack on the top part of it. How ever it doesn't seem to be moving. Seems like just a compression into the plate if that makes sense.

I think some foam might be in order now lol.

What's the difference between the red and blue stuff. I've used the blue stuff and it sealed well

Well the red stuff is for hi temp, I'm just wondering because that's what I have here. And should I be looking into doing these gaskets up before they start leaking or wait until the leak?

why fix it if it ain't broke?

I have mags I have been running for a year + and no leaks.

Oil 'em up good...fill with propane (from completely empty to completely full it takes about 14sec). Store them away.

I've done that consistently after each game (I also unload any remaining BBs) and have had zero issues since.

That's if your seals are already in good shape (start from day one keeping them oiled and pressured with gas). If they're all dried out from neglect...try "rehydrating" them with oil, silicone/rubber-friendly grease them, reassemble. When all 4 screws are firmly snug...give it a shot of gas and inspect for leaks. Adjust screw pressure until they don't leak anymore (carefull...you can snap the screws off with too much torque)....then just keep 'em lubed and filled with gas.

Hey guys, im pretty new to this whole WE M4 and I recently made a purchase at VA. The gun is completely stock. Anyways, I know the magazine has a button to switch whether the bolt will be held back when there is no bb. However, sometimes my bolt still cycle even tho there are no bbs. Do you guys experience the same problem?

BEFORE I answer any questions from you....I expect that you'll have read the entire thread, the summary posts and done your own research.

I'm not getting into playing 20 questions with you otherwise.

IF you've read through the entire thread and still have a question...I'll be happy to try my best to help.

I would advise others to follow suit....I just deleted 300 posts from this thread and don't want to have to do that again any time soon.

I have looked EVERYWHERE for a (trustworthy) shop that stocks both the RA-Tech SCAR-L upgrade kit and the Bomber Lightweight Bolt Carrier.

Does anyone have any links? Or links to 2 seperate trustworthy shops that have them in stock? I'm getting kind of desperate because I don't want them to run out of prod.

i just purchased the scar upgrade kit from airsoft global on wed. and it will be here tommorrow! they shipped it speed post for only 26 bucks. its light and small mind you but i didnt mind paying to get it quickly.

also they had great customer service, answered my emails very quickly.

so ive installed the ratech upgrade kit minus the hopup unit( not sure how its an upgrade it looks the same as origonal), but to the point... the orings on the ratech set seem to be larger than the origonal orings and are getting stuck. now do i use silicon oil on these or cylinder grease?? and will they eventually wear down?

Run the bolt in and out until they wear in (might take a long while)...keep them lubed to help it along.

You can either try to find replacement o-rings and trial-error it until you find a nice fit...or (this is up to you to decide to do this) you can take some fine 400/600 grit wet-dry sandpaper and buff them down to size.

Hi everyone....
Check this out :
YouTube - WE G39C GBB production final.flv
WE G36C

MP5 , L85 , G36C...What the first model that WE will release after M14??
WE is the brand that produce more GBBR type than others, I feel want to sell my 520fps SCAR for this G36C :banghead::banghead::banghead:

I ended up having to shave a bit off... but it works like a champion now!

I'll probably keep my scar and by the G36c... Just wont eat for a month ;)

Guys, this isn't a discussion thread, this is a technical problem thread. Take it somewhere else.

Sorry to add more clutter Ty, I know you're going to be doing some more deleting.

I have two quick questions:

1) What is the front sight post on a WE M4A1? Is it an A1 or A2?:
"Models for A1, five-prong (adjusts front and rear) and A2, four-prong."

My font sight post notch is way to low (can barley see it) so I would like to know which is the correct version so I can buy the right tool to adjust the height to the correct level.

2) When installing a real-steel pistol grip on a WE M4A1, how do you deal with the selector spring? In the stock WE pistol grip, there is a little hole drilled into the grip for the spring to sit - but in a real-steel pistol grip there is nothing. Should you just "squish/squeeze" the spring in or attempt to drill a hole similar to the stock WE pistol grip?

Not looking at it atm (at work) if I recall it is the A2. If you have some 5.56/7.62 kicking around you can use that to adjust your front sight :)

Real steel pistol grips use the selector tension spring & pin hole.
Example: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...6_BATTLE_GRIP#

http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/pr...71000015_1.jpg

I think some earlier models didn't have it, as the assembly was a bit different. My RS tango down grip does have this hole though (don't forget the lock washer also)


(if it doesn't have it, just drill it!)

Where did you get your RS pistol grip from?

I was given the same advice by Tys as well. I have the entire o-ring section covered in white lithium grease. It rarely hangs now.

Tys I plan to reverse that spring tonight, ill let u know how it goes.

Are you sure that you purchased a RS version? I have yet to buy one without the hole and I have the Tango Down, Hogue & Magpul MIAD and they all have it!!!
I did have to enlarge the opening to get it to work properly with the spring in my WE M4, SCAR, PDW and HK 416...if you don't it causes the selector to become notchy & difficult to move!

I have a real TangoDown battle grip in the mail.

Yea man, if it's real - you will have no problems (at least with Tango)

Yeah, I have a Vietnam era A1 Pistol Grip sitting on my shelf, needs a little bit of dremel to open up the selector switch spring housing to fit.

Awesome. Thanks guys, much appreciated.

Any confirmation on the front sight post - is it A1 or A2?

Mine is an A2 and has 4 sides (this is what youre asking right?)

Thanks for the info - much appreciated.

Could someone PLEASE snap a photo of their lower trigger group. I cannot figure out how to install the torsion spring properly (I forget how it looked before :() in a hope to fix my gun.

something like this Sam

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...4/DSC_7471.jpg

Thank you SO MUCH Tys! :)

Its aliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

5 mags, no venting.
6th mag was weird because it repeatedly gave off a very faint strike despite having gas in it, and as Murphy would have it, I am out of propane until tomorrow.

Thank you all for your assistance.

Hey guys, there's a version 2 RA-TECH Stinger Hop Up for the WE M4s at WGC and no where else that I know of. Does anyone have one of these and know if there's any performance differences between the version 1 and version 2?

Here's a link to the Stinger Hop Up.

I meant to post this for a while now, I also had problems with the bolt catch once. I've been using this on my real steel upper for about 2 months and have had zero problems. I have not tested this with the WE upper but the dimensions seem the same.

This extra bit of metal pushes up against the wall of the upper and keeps the bolt catch from engaging fully. Only 1mm of the bolt catch face catches the bolt, eroding and smoothing the edge away.

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/5200/aaawc.jpg

I grinded the extra bit of this off and now the extra spacing inside the receiver allows the catch to engage fully.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/5401/img1014i.jpg

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/8245/img1015g.jpg

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8458/img1018d.jpg

where can i get my hands on a we m4 part 092

Go to our Canadian WE distributor. Velocity Arms.

Does anyone have any links to animations or detailed description of how each part of a WE M4 works? Im looking for an animation or something I can see to learn about the internals.. please dont flame my ass..im planning to disassembly my M4 tomorrow to learn about it and Im looking for some guide.