Racing, isn't the main issue usually with TM is the slide breaks? I know there's a aluminium ones, wouldn't that solve the problem?

I know on 5-7, you simply can't use the gun with propane without destruction of internal above 25 degrees. Not sure if G18 has it but, 5-7, slide will break, hopup unit will break.

There are some other issue, notably with the frame...
http://www.pbase.com/racingmaniac/im...3/original.jpg

Note the crack around the screw hole. This is the stock TM G18C frame, after less than 200 round on propane, on a stock gun(meaning no metal upgrade, no spring upgrade)

hmm so I guess TM is becoming more and more like Maruzen, Tanaka WA where it only takes HFC134a

Even their big seller like 1911 or Hi-Capa are still suspect...the cylinder cracks for those...but thats a relatively simple fix...

So if I want a G18, TM is still the best bet to go with?

ive put several hundred rounds thru mine both propane (while outside) and air duster, but mostly duster gas, absolutely no problems.

mine seems to be okay so far as well. I am scared to do full auto for prolonged periods after hearing about all the malfunctions. I have the following upgrades:

-SD slide + outer barrel
-Guarder 150% hammer and recoil spring
-short stroked

Im also waiting for my upgrades to arrive:

-150% enhanced trigger spring
-200% recoil spring
-150% muzzle spring
-firefly floating valve

I just looked at my TM G18c and it seems to be fine. I've only recently acquired it and have just done some minor plinking in the house (maybe around 100 rounds).

I disagree with some people here and think that the KSC is more reliable. Their semi-auto glocks (G19) are among the most reliable ever but their auto's are decent. I've only broken slides and rocket/floating valves on my KSC G23F (shrunken G18C). Once upgraded to a metal slide and metal rocket/floating valve they have been very reliable for me, on propane and full auto.

As mentioned in this thread however, parts can be a little tricky to get but defiantly out there.

Thanks for all the opinions, it's nice to hear what people from all around the country outside my airsoft community think. Down here everyone just uses propane for their gbbs, I was unaware of readily available alternatives here in Canada. This may sound like a dumb question but when you guys say duster gas do you literally mean that canned air stuff to clean keyboards and such?

Does anyone know of a video showing the proper disassembly of a Tokyo Marui G18C slide ?

I am thinking about upgrading mine to a metal slide, but I would like to see what I am getting into before I jump into it.

I have looked around Youtube but I couldn't find and dissassembly vids for this G18C model.

Any hints or tips would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Gordo

Yeah you wont find any, because Ive tried.. but its not that difficult:

1. Take off the slide, remove recoil spring/spring guide and outer barrel/hop up assembly.

2. Looking at the rear interior of the slide, there is a Phillips screw. Remove that and the bracket and rear sight should come out.

3. Remove that plate at the bottom of the slide that interacts with the selector switch. There should be a spring at the bottom.

4. Remove the safety selector switch by aligning the selector nub inside the slide, with the nub hole on the slide. The selector should be able to be taken out now. BE CAREFUL, there is a small pin, and spring that may fly out. These are used for the selector to engage the notches on the slide. Underneath the spring, there is also a small metal ball.

5. You can now remove the entire BBU/air nozzle.

6. You can also unscrew the Phillips screw at the front of the slide that holds the front sight in place.

Congratulations, you have officially disassembled your Marui G18C!

WOW Thanks for taking the time to write out this detailed description! You Rock!

I will print it off and use it as a guide when I go to do the upgrade.

Thnaks again

Gordo

so whats the fix for the frame cracking?

Composite frame + some JB weld/Epoxy inside the frame right in the recess behind the screw post should do the trick, helps prevent unwanted torsional forces in the post.