WE M4 mag internals installed into Magpul PMag.
 

It can be done...

Before...
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...M4PMags011.jpg

After...
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...M4PMags010.jpg

I'm having trouble with my WE SCAR:
It functions flawlessley in semi auto, but when I fire in full auto, it will ALWAYS double or triple feed, anybody else have any similar issues?

*edit* after some more testing, now full auto doesn't function at all, it will fire once, but then the hammer will be unable to lock back unless i manually cock the gun with my finger off the trigger, meaning that the hammer is no longer being held back until the bolt returns to battery, it's simply rolling forward with the bolt, any suggestions?

This part is prone to breaking in the trigger assembly.
There are some CNC steel versions out there as well made by P.M.C. and you can check them out here:http://www.ipscgm.com/


Reinforced Firing Pin Delay Stop
http://www.airsoftpost.com/images/la..._GR_567_lg.jpg

This is where it's located:
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8903/img0365x.jpg

this piece will let it fire in semi auto but not full auto when broken? I will check it out, thanks

nope, just checked it, its not broken

Is your hinge plate broken by chance? Part #66

hey guys, what would be the *essential* components that I should stock up in anticipation of them breaking? The firing pin delay stop listed above is one; the stock hinge plate is another; anything else?

I'm having so much fun with this rifle that I want to make sure when something breaks (and we all know something WILL break eventually), I can quickly swap in the replacement and keep going.

Thanks!

OK now the whole thing is gone, now when i fire semi, sometimes it can get a shot or two out, but then it will just let a tiny bit of gas out of the next trigger pull, like the firing pin isnt striking

OK edit, my firing pin is mauled, i dont know how, so ill need a replacement, anybody else had firing pin problems?

Bonjour...what rifle do you have? SCAR or M4?

FIRST OFF: No rifle that stops working properly ever magically fixes itself. If something stops working normally...STOP using it. Fix the issue and then continue.

Second: There are a couple of known things with these GBBRs. Such as:
- you much cock the action before moving the selector (cock action, put on safe, load mag, cock action to chamber round...that's a nice safe way to do things)...if you don't and force it you'll break something

- if you have a jam...you can't just keep shooting to try and clear it.
--the steel nozzle will chop/smash bbs and then they'll for sure not go down the barrel...and you'll just be slamming your bolt into the nozzle that won't be able to go all the way forward...not a good thing.
--you CAN try to clear a single/double jam with a mag with JUST gas. It may blow out the jam.
--you're best off to clear the jam with an...SHOCK...unjamming rod (aka cleaning rod). The stock plastic ones are not still enough...get a real .22cal/.243 (6mm) cal rod.
--check the nozzle if you find bb fragments...I've had a piece of a chopped bb lodged inside the throat of the nozzle.

-If you have an M4 and it starts to act up...check to see that the white UHMW spacer hasn't ridden forward and is catching the hammer. It should be all the way back. I put a grub screw in mine to wedge it in place and it hasn't been an issue at all.

Parts to stock up on:
1. Hopup rubber - chopped bbs will tear the nubs off the stock hopup rubber. Nice to have that $3 piece on hand if you need it.
2. Part#66 - the CNC Tool Steel version is very nice. The stock ones are knows to wear out with use. (Warstore guys use/make them...they're shooting/gaming with the M4's a lot and have been wearing them out).
3. Nozzles - although the stock stainless steel one can take an enormous amount of abuse...having a backup one is nice (mine came with two).
4. If you have the "old" M4...switch over to the "CO2 upgrade kit"...which is essentially just the SCAR nozzle/chamber. It looks like that's the nozzle they're going to standardize on. It works, I've swapped mine over.
5. If you have a SCAR...the hinge plate.
6. Fill valves for the mags (MadBull replacement fill valves fit...at least they did for mine...and they're rated to CO2).

As you can see...the above list is pretty thin. More often than not these rifles are workhorses.

Tys

I don't own a WE SCAR, but I do own a KSC MP9, and I can't help but ask; has anyone tried putting a buffer on their SCAR bolt/stock plate? It seems to me that putting some padding (moleskin, mousepad :P) will prolong the life of your bolt/stock plate and it may increase cycle rates, too.

Yes...I have done that with some high density foam which I cut to fit. Seems to be less direct shock on the hinge plate. All good to report so far.
I will keep you posted if there is any change. My only concern is that there is a little more pre-load on the hinge plate

OK I have found the root of the problem with my valve striker on my AWSS SCAR, you may want to check your gun:
http://www.airsoftpost.com/replaceme...e-p-31709.html
this was slightly warped, allowing the valve striker to move up just enough that it hit the valve and fired but mashed the bottom corner a bit more with each shot. I took mine off and bent it back and now the gun seems to work fine, I'll probably still need to replace the striker sooner rather than later though.

Also, the gun isn't jamming, it will just triple feed and double feed when in full auto, and I can't explain it, because it runs fine in semi auto.

What bb are you using.

.25 bastards

these things run better on .30 ... reduces cyclic rate .. and reduces multi feeds

have you considered that there may be an issue with your mag?

Do you have a second mag to try to ensure it is not a mag issue?

No I don't have a second mag, but the mag lips on this thing look pretty normal.
I was wondering, could I try one of your mags this friday Brian?
I'll pick up some .3s tonight as well, but i doubt BB weight could make it triple feed so often.
Also, I'll need a new valve striker, anybody got one?