I wouldn't use it, it may cause severe premature wear on your trigger system especially if they are not steel. The best combination I found is the stock spring and a RS buffer which is more than enough. To be honest, increased recoil can also be produced if you have a good seal between the nozzle and mag gas lip. I modded my nozzle to increase the seal and I noticed significant increase in recoil. There are many other seals that can be improved in order to increase gas efficiency

Okay so i should be getting my WE416 in a few days.
Gonna ad an a plus hop rubber and figure out what length of tightbore to put in it (gonna go a lil longer then stock and hide it with a silencer)
Going to get a spare nozzle and an npas once i get it ima likely just get a seccond npas to put in the spare nozle for easy swaps if it breaks during a game.
Now for my question. Is madbull gear grease with teflon and acceptable lube to use on the trigger and other moving parts?

As long as Madbull gear grease does not contain Petroleum Distillates it should be good.

I use white lithium grease on my WE M4's moving parts, just avoid the O-rings. I bought it from Canadian Tire.

The way the trigger mech is contained there's very little chance grease is going to migrate from there to anywhere with a rubber bit.

And the external bits of the bolt don't interact with the nozzle at all.

So...you shouldn't have any problems.

If you pull the nozzle forward enough you'll see the oring on the end. It's essentially the piston...and the interior of the bolt is the cylinder. As long as you keep that lubed with rubber friendly lube you're good to go.

Personally....I just use ultralube/whatever-brand of clear gel PTFE lubricant that I use for everything. A couple of drops of heavier weight silicone oil doesn't hurt either.

Yea i have "sticky g" that comes with the AI gun gas kit to use on the oring.
The gear grease i have is basically like what you discribed Tys. It a clear silicone grease with teflon (its thick but not super thick it spreads nicely)
Installing the npas am i gonna need any special tools (to tap or anything) ir it just drops right into the nozzle after i dissasemble it?

A small punch to tap out the pin that holds the 2 halves of the nozzle together, I used a paper clip to get it out. But other than that it drops right in. Don't forget to reuse the spring that comes off of the valve on the inside.

Sweet. Yeah i have all the baisic tools from aeg and gbbp maintenance just read that "some modification" is required but that seems easy enough lol

The cross pin that holds the two halves together is really small in diameter. It's important to drive it out cleanly (I use a broken drill bit and tap it out). You don't want to mangle the holes in the nozzle body...or break/snap/bend the cross pin.

You'll see it when you see it.

How did you mod the nozzle? I've done a search but can't really find any nozzle mods aside from a few for using a SCAR nozzle in a PDW.

Also, what other seals can/should be modded to improve efficiency?

Okay so inner barell, hop rubber, npas, spare nozzle.
Is there anything else im missin that is potentially gonna break on me thats prone to fail.
Part 66? 49? (i think those are the ones i hear talk of all the time)

Sorry if this is slightly derail, but do you know if this is due to the aluminum nozzle or if they are running a steel bolt which also pancakes the hopup chamber?

You won't find it bc I never posted it, nor have I heard anyone else perform th mod. What's did is increase the seal between he air nozzle and gas route on he magazine, ensuring that the nozzle conforms nicely with the gae route. I add an extra layer to the nozzle and remove it accordingly so it mates perfectly with the gas route in the magazine.

Other places of gas seals include:

-Nozzle tip with hop up chamber
-Nozzle rear/oring with bolt
-Hop up bucking with inner barrel


I think it's mainly due to the aluminum nozzle, but I'm sure the weight of a steel bolt may also have some effect. The reason y I don't prefer the aluminum nozzle is bc of the fluctuating fps. Ill find a way to use the original npas when i get time. However, I still aluminum nozzles in all my guns bc I don't use gas at all to fill up my mags when I play.

Holy f****n s**t!¡!¡!
 

Well airsoft just went from fun to totally fuckin awesome in about 2.3 secconds.
Oh GBBR where have you been all my life!?! LOL
Well happy to say I am officially a wetard.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...502_170853.jpg
So now for a question. Single point sling attachment. What do i need a real steel one or something specific for a gbbr?
Also does anyone find their mags tear up bbs prety good? Will this go away afterawhile or should i take the sharp edge off the feed lips?

RS or GBBR-specific will usually run the same price, might as well get the real.

The lips will wear overtime, to the point where you will be able to load them with a speed-loader. I would say probably the first 10-15 loads will be harder to do.

You can use RS sling plates or if you don't mind a little file work you can use WA spec'd plates. I had to shave a bit off of the tang of my sling plate to get it to fit the WE reciever. The tang is what I am calling the circular lump of metal that fits into the reicever hole lol.

Oh and welcome to the cool kids club took you long enough lol