find a Bic lighter and take out the spring, clip it to length, they even taper at the ends and will probably fit nice and snug over the pin

So, I discovered why I was able to get a 2-3 round burst out of semi-auto.

It's the same root cause that eventually led to the gun firing full-auto when I release the trigger with the selector on auto. That's right - it fires full-auto without a finger on the trigger.

Turns out the hammer was worn by the stress testing I've been performing on the new CNC Steel Trigger I'm making. It wore the trigger catch on the bottom of the hammer down so it would no longer catch on the trigger and stop the hammer from moving forward when the trigger is released.

So if any of you develop similar symptoms over time, where you can get a "burst" on semi, or continuous full-auto fire after releasing the trigger, your hammer is worn - or the top of the trigger that makes contact with the hammer.

Looks like the triggers will have to be a group set with the hammer, disconnector, and trigger all included to prevent premature wear on any of the three parts that contact each other.

How many people here would like a review of the HK416?

It's the same operating system no? so what would you be reviewing? the body?

the externals?

Since this is more in the "tech" section vs. review section...I'd rather you ran it for a couple of thousand rounds and then put up your observations on performance, reliability, wear-tear, etc....

I could kind of care less in this thread if your plastic grip has a seam line or not...but in another review thread that'd be cool.

If you can accumulate solid technical info...I'd be more than happy to alter the thread title to include the 416. I haven't compiled the first couple of posts in a long time...probably should do that again soon.

BTW...I've made Version 1 of my adjustable valve...very *cough* similar to RATech's production unit...but just the floating valve, not the complete nozzle. I've got a couple of locals who are going to drop them into their rifles and see how they hold up. Takes about 5-10min per valve and costs me about $0.05.

Tys

it'll be more of a performance review pump 10k of round throught it in a month and see how it looks update at 20k ect

i'd be perfect to do that type of stress testing i game every week and use 1000 -2000 bb's a game roughly there might be improvements to the internals so i'll include that as well .

hopefully the've improved the parts prone to breakage in this model

Holy shit, so as local players have know, I haven't been out to games much, except CAPS because my WE SCAR needs mags... Trying to painfully save up for them, as problems with the hi-capas rises. LOL

Anyways, wtf?

I probably put about under 1000 shots dry fire and rounds in and no problems, till I was bored and checked the hinge plate. Seeing there's like reallllllllly small hair line cracks around the top. Opened her up and checked where the recoil rod butt sits, and there's very small hair line cracks. It's not big, I just threw in some adhesive double sided foam tape. Seems to buffer but I miss the clinging sounds.

Anyways, I was using propane and that happens. lol

I COULD order a $10 replacement, but seems like Evike is really bad?
Hmm, where on earth could I get a CNC one so I can have the extra fun with the clinging and metal bashing? :)

I order from evike... no problems other than a bit of waiting...
if you make an order from them, order a few reinforced part#66 at the same time

Hey guys!

I just finished my prototype for the broken hindge problem. It is a small PVC bloc that is placed (glued) in the lower recever. The bolt now will hit both the new bloc and the normal stopper at the same time. So it should divide the recoil force by 2 on the hindge plate. I will do some testing and maybe I will shorten the normal stopper so all the recoil force is on the new bloc.

See pictures so you can understand what the hell I'm talking about.

I'll test it soon as my gun is not in working order right now. I'll let you know how it goes. I'll post the dimensions of the block when I did some tests.

Comments?

Ah the ol' "KSC Solution". This is a great idea, and one of the first things I'd do if I owned a SCAR. Again, some long-term performance reviews would be great for this sort of thing. Good job!

Looks good. Wouldn't mind giving it a try!

On a "technical" note though, I gamed my SCAR at Xtreme-Tactics last weekend, and I discovered something very interesting.

In the back area - there are "effect lights" including a black-light. Under the black-light, my FDE SCAR-L glows bright-white.

Just a word of warning in case any of your indoor arenas use a black-light, you will look like you're carrying a space blaster.

No joke - it was so bad, I stayed out of the area for the remainder of the day.

As soon as I'm comfortable with my new SCAR, she's getting painted.

That rocks...simple is best.

Comments
1. Slot/"hollow" the block a bit so it compresses/"crumples" a bit?
2. Is it hard to pull out? The GHK AK rubber block (they do the same sort of thing) is a BITCH to pull out...until you use a 3" deck screw. Drill it in a bit and then use the screw to pull it out.

Tys

Well, I'm planning to just glue it in place. No need to remove it after I think.

Hey Big looks pretty good keep us all updated on your results. I did the mouse pad mod but if the pad is too thick the carrier bolt will not cycle completely back. I just used a thinner mouse pad and its been working good for me so far.